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Black Wall
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Primer 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 833
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jul 28, 2009
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Excellent in its brevity. Tim on Primer.

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Description 

Primer is the short bit excellent crack in the dihedral of the Primer boulder, on the left side of Black Wall.

Climb the hand to fingercrack to chains in the green dihedral.

This route is often overlooked because it is not drawn in any guidebooks or topos, but rather is described in the text. The guide calls it .9+ but I believe it checks in at .9. Also, it varies in size, so please, no comments about how if you're short or have carney hands it's harder. Fight grade creep!


Location 

On the boulder with the green face and dihedral 50 feet left of One Hand Clapping.


Protection 

Finger and hand size cams. Bolted anchors equipped for lower off.



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By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 29, 2009

Nice crack! And a bit sustained--would be great to take laps on for endurance (unfortunately you are mostly just training your right side).

Ya know, the finishing moves are kinda reachy and harder if you're...er, uh....and I mean, the section right before it is super tight fingers and definitely harder for those with, um.....wait, what was I saying??

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 16, 2009

That's the spirit!

Fight grade creep!

5.8+.

By SKI
From: Portlandia, OR
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

5.9, 5.9+ if you screw it up on the gear.

By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Aug 5, 2012

Led this today mostly because it was in the shade. Nice route! I had no idea what the name or rating was and I can agree with the 5.9 rating. It is strenuous, but fairly short.

By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Sep 21, 2012

This is a great little route. It might be short, but it sure gets the blood pumping. Save some strength for the last couple of moves. Protects great.