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Primer is the short bit excellent crack in the dihedral of the Primer boulder, on the left side of Black Wall.
Climb the hand to fingercrack to chains in the green dihedral.
This route is often overlooked because it is not drawn in any guidebooks or topos, but rather is described in the text. The guide calls it .9+ but I believe it checks in at .9. Also, it varies in size, so please, no comments about how if you're short or have carney hands it's harder. Fight grade creep!
On the boulder with the green face and dihedral 50 feet left of One Hand Clapping.
Finger and hand size cams. Bolted anchors equipped for lower off.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 29, 2009
Nice crack! And a bit sustained--would be great to take laps on for endurance (unfortunately you are mostly just training your right side).
Ya know, the finishing moves are kinda reachy and harder if you're...er, uh....and I mean, the section right before it is super tight fingers and definitely harder for those with, um.....wait, what was I saying??
From: Oakland CA
Nov 16, 2009
That's the spirit!
Fight grade creep!
From: Portlandia, OR
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
5.9, 5.9+ if you screw it up on the gear.
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
Aug 5, 2012
Led this today mostly because it was in the shade. Nice route! I had no idea what the name or rating was and I can agree with the 5.9 rating. It is strenuous, but fairly short.
From: Reno, NV
Sep 21, 2012
This is a great little route. It might be short, but it sure gets the blood pumping. Save some strength for the last couple of moves. Protects great.