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Disappearing Buttress
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Prime Rib 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Maurice Horn, Andrew Carson, Bill Hotz, Jorge Urioste 1/10/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,070
Submitted By: Andrew Carson on Sep 7, 2009

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Perfect cam placement by one of the museum-piece p...

Description 

Disappearing Buttress sits across the small drainage just north of the Illusion Crags. It's approximately 500' high and offers quality rock and much climbing potential on generally south facing rock.
Prime Rib climbs the most prominent line up the south face, giving four pitches of excellent climbing of about 5.7 difficulty.
From the lowest point of the south face, scramble 4th/easy 5th class up to a large ledge, below and left of a pine tree. From here, the first pitch climbs cracks just right of the crest, then up the crest, passing to the left of a square-cut roof. Belay on a good stance a short distance above.
Continue slightly right of the ridge crest, following a curving crack, then trend left and back to the crest. Follow the crest more or less directly upwards, with belays possible at several small stances.
Climb on the crest or slightly right of it to a final steep headwall. Climb this from the right to a big, comfortable ledge.
A short pitch going right leads to the top.
The route can be broken into a variety of pitch lengths, depending upon what belays are chosen. The first ascent did the climb in four pitches.
The second ascent, done in Feb., '09, climbed left of the crest in several places, and used a couple of pitons, still in place.

Location 

The route climbs the central prominent rib on the south face of the buttress. Descend west along slabs and ledges, and then back to the base. A quick, easy descent.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3".


Photos of Prime Rib Slideshow Add Photo
Upper part of pitch 3 - very nice.
Upper part of pitch 3 - very nice.
Prime Rib Pitch #2
Prime Rib Pitch #2
Coming up to the pitch 2 belay stance.
Coming up to the pitch 2 belay stance.
Prime Rib pitch #2
Prime Rib pitch #2
Coming up on the pitch 4 anchor - some of the best climbing on the route.
Coming up on the pitch 4 anchor - some of the best...
Prime Rib pitch # 4
Prime Rib pitch # 4
Maurice Horn leading the second pitch, working his way back to the crest.
Maurice Horn leading the second pitch, working his...
Prime Rib pitch # 4
Prime Rib pitch # 4
Pitch 3 - the route can either go left or right through the bulge.
Pitch 3 - the route can either go left or right th...
 Gray and I climbed Prime Rib in November of 2009, my third ascent of the route. It is a superb winter climb because of the sunny exposure.
BETA PHOTO: Gray and I climbed Prime Rib in November of 2009,...
Pitch 4
Pitch 4
Prime Rib climbs the left hand skyline.
Prime Rib climbs the left hand skyline.
Pitch 5 - short escape pitch.  Climb the crack directly above the climbers head and walk off to the left.
Pitch 5 - short escape pitch. Climb the crack dir...
Overview of the route
Overview of the route
Looking down pitch 1.
Looking down pitch 1.

Comments on Prime Rib Add Comment
Show which comments
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 10, 2010

Climbed this fine route today after bailing on an FA of the left facing flakes to this routes immediate right. Turned out to be a good decision because Prime Rib is outstanding and the climb we planned on doing kept looking worse as we continued up. The pitons on the third pitch looked OLD (ring pins, slight rust), looks like someone was here long ago.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Mar 2, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Those are actually just old pins that were recently placed on a new route. Being a new route, there is still some loose rock. We tried to remove as much as possible, but be wary if there is a party above you.
By cassondra
From: las vegas, NV
Mar 15, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Definitely 5.7, but not the best choice for a new leader due to less than obvious route-finding and loose rock. It should be better after it cleans up a bit. With the loop just crawling with spring break vacationers and people who showed up early for the Rendezvous, Disappearing Buttress was a great place to avoid the crowds. The only other people we saw out there were those whose headlamps we spied from afar as they made their way back from
the south face of Windy Peak.
By Jay Holland
From: Henderson, NV
Feb 25, 2013

Interesting day. The road is a bit rough, use the exit just west of black velvet parking and follow it west along the highway, turn hard right and go to the second parking lot(small) You should be able to see the area easily from here. Head straight towards the area. Go up to the base of the rock and drop left around to the route. You will see cairns on the way as you get closer. About 1 hour approach through rough bushwacking. Very little trail. The start and end is not great climbing. The middle is great. Hard to define best belay stops, pro is not easy to find. Holds are all there. Great Top out! Walk off 25 minutes back to base. We did it in 4 pitches. 1st short scramble , then three long pitches with 70m rope.
By Joe Vitti
May 29, 2013

Well done Maurice and company, what an awesome first ascent team. I climbed this rt. awhile ago after Maurice recomended it and loved it, good climbing, exposure and cool summit and walk off; really great. Thanks for posting Andrew and hope to see you guys again soon.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 30, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Good, not great climbing. Fairly run out- although if you had a double set of small cams it would feel better- we didnt have anything smaller than fingers and I wished I did for most of the day. A set of rp's or other micronuts would also be nice in a few spots.

Rock was pretty good for the most part- nothing broke on us, although some spots on the route had that...'please don't break' feeling...

All in all, a nice day out. Definitely 5.7 for the 5.9 and up leader, though. Not a beginner route.