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The Grotto
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Prime Directive 
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Prime Directive 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: David Clay, 1995
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Apr 19, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Prime Directive's upper six bolts. There is also ...
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Description 

The leftmost route in The Grotto, this liberally bolted route heads up a crack system for the first 20 feet, and then moves into the fun overhanging section of the headwall above the columns.

Getting over the roof and from the second to the fifth bolt is the tough section, using hidden holds. That hardly anyone climbs the route adds to the mystique of route finding while on the wall.

While this climb has many varied moves and styles of climbing, none of the moves are that fun. The top section is probably only 5.8, but is really runout, 15 feet separate from the second to last to the last bolt, and 20 feet from there to the top bolt. So - don't fall in the top section.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.



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By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 23, 2010

Yikes... a bit of a head-game to climb this one. No chalk, lots of lichen/moss, quite a bit of loose rock, and runout in the upper section. Wouldn't recommend it. If you do go for it, I would bring a couple cams to protect the bottom section before reaching the first bolt; I think I placed a .5 C4. The rock is pretty bad down there, though, so I'm not sure if the placement would really help keep you off the ground anyway.

Also, there is an alternate "direct" start to this climb. An obvious splitter thin finger crack called "Digit's Delight" (11c) shoots straight up to meet the second (or third?) bolt of this route. I bailed off of it; too hard and painful for me. Looks like a nice crack, but it's only 25-30 feet, and then you've got another 40 feet or so of the uninspiring bolted face climbing.