Prime Climb 5.11b
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Description The route climbs the arete to the right of Black Mamba, near the middle-bottom right of the crag. It's crimpy, powerful, technical, and balancy, depending on how you go about it. I like to clip the second bolt, as there is a tough move above the first and I am affraid of hitting the deck, but it is a little bit high and hard to reach with a stick clip, so bring a long stick. If your stick is somewhat inadequate (hehe) it's pretty easy to clip the bolt if you traverse from the left (start of Black Mamba) but I feel that you would need to lower off to do the opening moves.
After climbing past the first two bolts, mantel onto a good ledge, then the arete eases up a bit. Soon it gets steeper, and more technical. Reach the wet hold on the right, hopefully not after much rain and not in the moss, then follow the bolts to the left of the messy broken rock and back right to the Lower Offs.
Location The arete to the right of Black Mamba. The climb starts from the left side of the relatively flat ground on the bottom right of the clif (I hope that makes sense.)
Protection 13 bolts (long stick clip or traverse recommended for the first bolt.)
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 11, 2009
| " I like to clip the second bolt, as there is a tough move above the first and I am affraid of hitting the deck, but it is a little bit high and hard to reach with a stick clip, so bring a long stick"
I did not find any of the moves in the first 2 or 3 bolts to be that hard and I whipped all over the upper crux of this, so do not let this scare you away. |
By tscupp
From: Providence, RI
Sep 15, 2010
rating: 5.11b
| Pleasantly deceptive. The slabby arete looks innocuous from the ground but contains some tricky moves and you can climb yourself into some irreversible situations if you don't think a few moves ahead. |
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