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North/West side
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Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females 
Primal Scream 
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Route 7 
Route 8 
Sandy Pocket Crack 
Toprope face (unknown) 
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) 
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) 
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View with a Room 

Primal Scream 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Mike McGill
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Wa3lt on Mar 22, 2009
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Description 

Climb choss to a bouldery start on top of a chossy block tower, as for Overkill, then left after 2nd bolt. Follow the overhanging prow with small pockets on the left and sidepulls right of the arete, with a reachy crux on a strange highstep to a horizontal crack after the 2nd-to-last bolt providing the crux.

This climb is shaded, even in summer evenings.


Location 

Primal Scream is just right of the nice-looking crack Crisis in Utopia. The start as the same as for Overkill, but go left after the 2nd bolt.


Protection 

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. (The guidebook says 5 bolts but there are 6.)

The 2-bolt anchor at the top doesn't have chains or slings to rappel from. Carefully, step over to the anchor for Overkill, or reach down from the top edge to get your gear.



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