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 ADVANCED
North/West side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biomechanoid S 
Chocolate Thunder S 
Citizen of Time S 
Crisis In Utopia T 
D'Antonio Approach S 
Dangle Your Participle S 
Hammertime S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
Just Say No To Jugs S 
Just Say Yes To Fingercrack T 
Lubme S 
Overkill S 
Overlard (aka Foops) S 
Overlichen S 
Overloord S 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack T 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females S 
Primal Scream S 
Putterman Gully Jump S 
Route 7 S 
Route 8 S 
Sandy Pocket Crack T 
Toprope face (unknown) TR 
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) T 
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) T 
Vanilla Crack T 
Vasoconstrictor S 
View with a Room S 

Primal Scream 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Mike McGill
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: Wa3lt on Mar 22, 2009

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Description 

Climb choss to a bouldery start on top of a chossy block tower, as for Overkill, then left after 2nd bolt. Follow the overhanging prow with small pockets on the left and sidepulls right of the arete, with a reachy crux on a strange highstep to a horizontal crack after the 2nd-to-last bolt providing the crux.

This climb is shaded, even in summer evenings.


Location 

Primal Scream is just right of the nice-looking crack Crisis in Utopia. The start as the same as for Overkill, but go left after the 2nd bolt.


Protection 

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. (The guidebook says 5 bolts but there are 6.)

The 2-bolt anchor at the top doesn't have chains or slings to rappel from. Carefully, step over to the anchor for Overkill, or reach down from the top edge to get your gear.



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