Primal Scream  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 45 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Bob D'Antonio, Mike McGill Submitted By:  Wa3lt on Mar 22, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Climb choss to a bouldery start on top of a chossy block tower, as for Overkill, then left after 2nd bolt. Follow the overhanging prow with small pockets on the left and sidepulls right of the arete, with a reachy crux on a strange highstep to a horizontal crack after the 2nd-to-last bolt providing the crux.

This climb is shaded, even in summer evenings.

Location 

Primal Scream is just right of the nice-looking crack Crisis in Utopia. The start as the same as for Overkill, but go left after the 2nd bolt.

Protection 

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. (The guidebook says 5 bolts but there are 6.)

The 2-bolt anchor at the top doesn't have chains or slings to rappel from. Carefully, step over to the anchor for Overkill, or reach down from the top edge to get your gear.