|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 1000'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Warren Teissier on Oct 23, 2001|
|Comments on Primal Rib||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Richard Radcliffe
From: Louisville, CO
Jan 24, 2008
|Hand traversing along the arete is fantabulous! A highly recommended scramble.|
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Aug 6, 2009
The description here, as well as the one in the new Haas Flatirons guidebook, recommends beginning with the dihedral thing above the beginning of the ridge. However, I quickly tired of bushwhacking uphill and instead climbed from the lowest spot on the rock up and left to a fern growing in the base of a splitter tight fists (#3.5 Friends) crack. I followed the crack to a roof and pulled through at about 5.6 or 5.7, then followed features to the arete.
The crack/roof climbing was a nice start to the route, and though the rock isn't especially clean, the movement was excellent. Climbing this variation with gear you're probably want a couple-three #3 Camalots or #3.5 Friends in addition to a light rack for protection, as the crack, though easy, is sustained in width for a long stretch.
By Mic Fairchild
Oct 23, 2011
|Although getting started is a bit of a thrunch, climbing on the ridge is great. I crashed uphill and did some face climbing to get onto the rib proper and had a wonderful time. I don't know how it might go with a rope and partner, but protection and belays looked sparce. Lots of downed trees along Porch Alley on the descent but nothing terminal. Another recommended Roach classic (much better than Angel's Way).|