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Primal Rage 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Seth Tart
Season: Early Spring or Late Fall
Page Views: 367
Submitted By: S Tart on Jun 25, 2013

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Seth Tart cutting loose on the 1st crux of Primal ...

Description 

Since this route was first climbed, a new sequence has been found which lowers the grade to 12+ and makes the second crux considerably more esthetic. West coast climber, Thad Friday, unlocked the sequence by climbing out left to a block side pull before moving right onto the crimp ladder face.

Grunting and growling on incredible stone; a typical Zeus wall experience and this one does not disappoint. Climb up the blocky 20 foot start to a small perch, placing a couple pieces along the way just in case. A slip here would be a 150 feet down. Stick clip the first 2 bolts from the perch and fire a big, unnerving move to the lip of the roof. Get re-established, then work out left and power your way through the second crux. From here nice technical face climbing leads to a balancy finish at the anchors.

Location 

Far left of Zeus wall just before turning the corner to Catnip, there is a roof/arÍte feature 20' up with 2 obvious bolts.

Protection 

6 bolts, anchors, and a couple TCU's for the start


Photos of Primal Rage Slideshow Add Photo
Greg Loomis holding the first reach crux.  Photo by Dennis
Greg Loomis holding the first reach crux. Photo b...

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By gloomis
Sep 6, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Great route! Very bouldery cruxes on perfect stone with wild exposure.