Primal Magic 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Brian Smoot |
| Submitted By: | veritus on Jun 30, 2006 |
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A beautiful day for a send
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Description The old guide puts this route at 5.11b. When compared to the other 5.11b's on this wall Primal Magic feels a lot easier. The crux is around the 5th bolt and consists of one committing move to a jug which almost out of sight.
Location Its the first route to the right of the overhung 5.12 section. Its vertical and its on the light colored face.
Protection 7 bolts, chain anchors
By Price From: SLC, UT Jun 10, 2008
| This route is much easier than its neighbor Juggernaut. Subjective ratings I guess. |
By WasatchChic From: Salt Lake, Utah Aug 6, 2008 rating: 5.11b
| I think the 11b rating is correct when compared to the Wasatch Range. But might agree that Juggernaut feels a bit harder... but they are quite different climbs. |
By Tosh Peters From: Park City, UT Sep 3, 2008 rating: 5.11b
| this thing is fun. pocket pulling up to a big layback feature with the crux coming at the end of the feature. i felt like it was just as hard as suicide blonde but i havnt done juggernaut yet. |
By Jon Zucco From: Denver, CO Sep 29, 2008 rating: 5.11a
| the crux move on juggernaut is harder than any move on primal magic...however, pm has bigger initial moves and is slightly more sustained. interesting/misleading crux. Chossy looking blocks of what looks like clay to the left of the lie-back and crux are bad foot holds! a few of them came off and hit my belayer from 40 ft. no bueno. |
By Bad Sock Puppet From: Utah Jun 20, 2009 rating: 5.11-
| Another good climb on hardrock wall. I'd have to agree with a few of the comments, that the rating is questionable to it being an .11b, since both suicide blonde and juggernaut are both harder. What is true about this climb is that it's fun, and makes for a great warm up when you plan to work on the 5.12's to the left. I'm honestly not sure where, or even if there was a crux since there's a great stemming rest about 2/3 the way up, so you get to recover and tackle the last bit easily. |
By anja Oct 22, 2010 rating: 5.10d
| We found the grades on hard rock (primal magic-gas boost) to be a bit strange, with the routes to the right being harder than rated (treehugger-gas boost) and the climbs on the left being easier. I would re-rate them as: primal magic*** - 10d juggernaut** - 11a punch the clock* - 10c unknown left*** - 5.9 unknown right** - 5.9 treehugger* - 10b vaporous apparition*** - 10a gas boost** - 5.9 Or, if primal magic is 11a or 11b for the area, the others should be bumped up. Great climbs, but we started with vaporous apparition and didn't get the warmup we expected! |
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