Primal Jam  5.11c

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Ben Mottinger on Mar 23, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Ben aiding up the lower overhang of Primal Jam.

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Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> As of March 7, 2012: Shakespearean Theater – restricted March, April, May. Mind Meld – restricted March, April, May. Porky’s Wall – restricted March, April, May, June. Vulture Wall – restricted March, April, May. Morning Sun Wall – restricted March, April, May, June, July. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A huge double tiered roof that is exciting to just look at as you walk by. To lead it is another story....

Locate this route along the trail from the Grocery Store Wall--you can't miss it. A downclimb is possible several hundred yards to the North via easy 5th class.

Scramble up 10 feet to a ledge and begin the climb from here. The first roof is not too bad and takes some good pro. Pulling over this first lip is tricky, but a nice hands-free rest is found under the second roof. The exposure is nice for this second roof, which accepts decent crack pro (variable from 0.5 inch to hand size), but large pockets make the route sane. If you are placing a lot of pieces (especially for the first roof), Hanson notes that you can do the route in two pitches to avoid the extreme rope drag.

This is an exciting route that requires concentration, commitment, and some "hard grit."

Protection 

Stoppers and good selection of cams from 0.5" to 3". A #7 hex and a #2.5 Friend will setup an anchor at the top.

Photos of Primal Jam Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO	Dan cleaning the route on ascenders.	Dan in the roof, cleaning it after an aid ascent.