This has 1 3/4 independent pitches crossing a steep to vertical wall to link the first pitch of Strange Cargo to the final pitch of Autumn. The entire climb is either three or four pitches long depending on your choice of belays. It is worth considering if you've already climbed Strange Cargo, Autumn, Divination, and Zentropa and want to do another moderate sport route on Lost Angel. 1 star for the independent pitches; 2 or 3 stars for the entire route.
P1. Climb the first pitch of Strange Cargo.
P2. From the belay, climb a slab on the right and then move back left into a large, right-facing corner. The first bolt is 15' or so above the belay and difficult to spot from below. After a few .10a moves in the corner, diagonal up right following a series of weaknesses in the steep wall and belay on a narrow ledge. The rock on this pitch is friable and loose in places. Be careful.
P3. Pull over a .10b bulge just left of the belay ledge, and then climb up and right to the rounded arete on the third pitch of Autumn.
P4. Either continue up Autumn or, to minimize rope-drag on its insecure finishing moves, down-climb roughly 15'-20' to the belay anchors before beginning Autumn's third pitch. (Rossiter's guidebooks suggest a pendulum to reach the Autumn belay. I thought the slabby down-climbing was reasonable. Your second can protect it by leaving the rope clipped into the second bolt on the arete before descending.)
Up to 12 QDs.
|By Alton R.|
From: Boulder, Co
Nov 3, 2013
I climbed this route today mostly by accident. Still had a great time nonetheless.
After the roof on the first pitch of Strange Cargo, I continued up through the corner past the anchor out right for Primal Cinema as I was headed for the next belay on SC.
Roughly 15 below the SC belay I saw a line of bolts heading right. The climbing looked enticing, so I headed that way thinking this may be SC and it goes back left. I had taken about 22 draws to the link the first 2 and had enough for the forseeable future.
After climbing diagonally up and right about 50 feet, a lower angle small, right-facing corner with bolts on the left appears. I ended up clipping the first two bolts of this and then doing a thin traverse over right to the belay on top of the second pitch of Autumn. (Traverse lower then you think for this as going higher is at least 10+ and would be a bad fall if the follower went the same way.)
Now we were set up to do the final headwall for our second pitch.
For this mega-pitch, I clipped 17 bolts and used a few runners. The pitch ended up being about 200 feet in total. It was a pretty fun journey that far up the wall in one pitch.
I'd call this a Primal Cinema "variation" at about the same grade.