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Primak's Surprise 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Uknown
Page Views: 869
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 25, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: Debauchery (12), Primak's Surprise (13), and Pleth...

Description 

Primak's Surprise is found at the inside corner to the right (south) of Debauchery. Climb the inside corner using holds on either side. Once near the top either skirt under the shrub or climb up and left to finish using the top of Debauchery.


Protection 

Standard Rack



Photos of Primak's Surprise Slideshow Add Photo
Lechery (11), Debauchery (12), and Primak's Surprise (13)
BETA PHOTO: Lechery (11), Debauchery (12), and Primak's Surpri...
Young climber from UW Madison Hoofer's on his first lead of Primak's Surprise.  No doubt finding out what the name is all about.
Young climber from UW Madison Hoofer's on his firs...
Comments on Primak's Surprise Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim McGuire
Dec 2, 2003

So the long tradition of not reporting the rating in order to not spoil the surprise has been abandoned. I always wondered what the consensus rating would be, but still seems a pity to let the uninitiated in on the surprise.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 19, 2006

Primak's Surprise should get at least one more star. It is a great lead and no give away for the grade. Speaking of the grade? If one stays on line when leading up this route (meaning- climbs along the entire natural corner and crack line from bottom to top) it is a bit harder then 5.6 I would have to say. Is this in fact Primak's actual surprise?

By Corey Morris
From: Fort Hood, TX
Apr 14, 2009

I agree Burt...staying true to the crack is tougher...

By Unboundquark
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

This is a great lead and will take lots of pro. I really enjoyed this route a lot. The guidebook description is right on the money. Every time you hit the "crux" it is followed up by another one LOL. Stick with the natural line up the corner crack and you'll have a very enjoyable climb.

By Tradoholic
Jun 10, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

The surprise is that's it's a classic DL sandbag at any grade!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 4, 2011

This route is full-on! Great sandbagged lead.

By Lauren Katherine
Mar 31, 2014

Climbed halfway up this yesterday & had to stop when I heard a rattlesnake up a few feet, hidden on a ledge. Didn't know the rating so I can only assume Primak's surprise is a timber rattler. Be warned!