Start about 75 feet right of Gumby Groove. Climb up to the first bolt, make a hard move and then climb past two more bolts to a ledge. Follow a line of bolts up a black streak (hard) and gain a angling groove. First up past three more bolts (hard) and gain the anchor. A 200-foot rope DOES NOT MAKE IT BACK TOO THE GROUND (about 10 feet short). BE CAREFUL. Excellent continuous slab climbing on solid rock. Great route! Almost three stars.
Eleven clips will get you to a two-bolt anchor.
Dec 19, 2004
Great route. Excellent slab climbing with several hard sections.
Apr 21, 2006
If this is the route with the glue-in bolts next to and above gumbi grove, well then I hate to inform you that all of the glue-in bolts are trashed and bent over. What a mess. These were some of the finest bolted routes in the South Platte area. Who ever did this must have a serious problem. If you don't like bolts don't use them but certainly don't make things worse by trying to destroy the bolts. It only damages the rock even more.
Another thing to the person or persons who did this, don't do it HALF-ASS. Make sure you clean up your mess, fix your damage, pull them cleanly as you can, and re-epoxy and seal the rock so a person can't tell anything was even there.
What a bunch of scum bags.
|By Derek Lawrence|
Apr 30, 2006
I saw the comment above and drove by to check this out
Unfortunately, the bolts on Prickle's Problem and Pokey Minds the Baby have been destroyed. These were 2 good independent lines that were a lot of fun to climb so it is a shame that they are now unclimbable. I'm not sure what kind of statement was being made as the bolts weren't chopped, but just hammered over. They look a lot worse now.....
|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 7, 2008
It's a shame this route was destroyed as I thought it was one of the best slab routes on the wall and the bolts weren't even removed, simply hammered against the wall.
A single 70meter rope will get you down.