Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Price Glacier
Select Route:
Price Glacier Route 

Price Glacier Route 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c WI3-4 Steep Snow

   
Type:  Ice, Snow, Alpine
Consensus:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c WI3-4 [details]
FA: Beckey, Schwabaland, Grantson 1945
Page Views: 3,048
Submitted By: ChrisZ on Aug 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Approx route taken AUG 2008.

Description 

After crossing beneath the Nooksack Tower to a point at about 6500 ft, step onto the Price Glacier and enjoy route finding on steep snow, alpine ice at grades around AI-2 to AI-3. Avoid seracs and slough chutes as needed. Ascend to the bergschrund(s) at approximately 7800 ft and choose your line: rock to the left, an ice line up the middle, or mixed to the right. Probably variable by season. Once this last major obstacle has been surmounted, continue up the steep snow or ice-field to the base of the summit pyramid. Standard ascent of the pyramid is via easy gullies (4th or low 5th class) on the south side. Descend via Fischer Chimneys route.

Protection 

Depends on season. In the middle of August we brought 3 pickets, 1 fluke, 6 ice screws, and a small rock rack. We used nearly all of the pro we brought. We climbed ice over the last bergschrund and didn't use the rock rack, but this may not always be possible.


Comments on Price Glacier Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Schultz
From: Saratoga Springs, New York
Nov 3, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2-3 Steep Snow

Did this early Aug 2014 and we did a rock variation on climber's left to get past the final, impassible shrund. It was tricky/funky/fun ice onto a super steep (65+ degree) snow slope (probably 50m to an anchor near the rock) then two pitches of rock (probably 70m total) to reach the final snowfield along the crystal glacier.

We had four 24" pickets and one 36" picket - use all five frequently during long section of simul-climbing and especially on the last steep snow pitch (above) to make an anchor.

We had six screws and also used all during long section of simul-climbing.

We had a good sized rock rack from climbing nooksack tower the previous two days, and was glad to have it for the rock bypass of the final shrund.

Our route went straight up the gut of the glacier, we eye-balled what looked like a continuous line and we made it work. We were also able to watch the glacier for the previous two days while on Nooksack tower and saw little to no ice fall or active movement and felt safe going through the middle of it. It certainly could have not worked out well, but felt it was an appropriate gamble.

Overall - fantastic route, well worth doing. Much more enjoyable and engaging than Liberty Ridge, IMO.