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Coney Island
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Feeding the Beast S 
Fly Swatter S 
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Lucky Strikes Again S 
New Fanatic S 
Pri-Moe T,S 
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Pri-Moe 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas and Moe Hershoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 579
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Pri-Moe and Lucky Strikes Again, Coney Island.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route lies on the far right-side (east-face) of Coney Island.Locate three bolts up a steep, blocky face. Climb past the bolts tending left into a chimney/flared slot. Clip a bolt and make a long reach into a finger crack. Climb up steep rock on good jams to a good rest. Crank up past the last bolt making a dicey move to the anchor.

Protection 

Five bolts and small to medium gear will get you to a two-bolt anchor.


Photos of Pri-Moe Slideshow Add Photo
A good rest for the final moves.
A good rest for the final moves.

Comments on Pri-Moe Add Comment
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By Kent Lugbill
Nov 13, 2002

Make sure you bring Friends up to #3. This is not a sport route. It is well worth doing, but watch out for the loose block.
By Chris Archer
Jun 23, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

For many years, Bob has done an awesome job in opening numerous routes of all grades in the area. Unfortunately they can't all be gems, and IMHO this one falls into that category. After being bombarded with a steady stream of lichen, dirt, pebbles, and assorted other detritus, I got the coveted "second refused to follow! (or lead)." Maybe this route will clean up after significant traffic, but at present it is quite dirty. Some other minor points: the 4th bolt is placed too high to be clipped before beginning the crux stemming, necessitating small gear in a loose flake. Lowering the bolt would adequately protect the moves into the finger crack without having to risk ripping the gear in the movable flake. Also I'd agree with Kent's comment regarding the rack, in addition to small to finger-sized cams, I also placed #2, 2.5 and 3 Friends. Finally, why are the anchor bolts 4.5 feet apart from each other?! Is there another route planned beneath the leftmost of the bolts?
By Andy Moore
Jul 2, 2004

Once this cleans up a bit more, I think it deserves a star (or at least not a bomb). There are some cool moves up the crack and through the slot. Heed Chris' advice about gear in the loose flake before the 4th bolt. If you have a #3.5 Camalot or so, though, it provides bomber pro right below the loose flake. In retrospect, the move up to clip the 4th bolt wasn't bad, but I'm glad I had some gear.
By kyle lefkoff
Jun 13, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Climbed it 6/11 with Alkaitas leading, who jettisoned some impressive loose blocks from the base of the chimney. It is a worthy line in my view, and really a trad route with a bolt at the crux.
By Nick Fury
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 26, 2009

That little chimney is really fun, you can completely stem out and rest for a minute.
By Dougald MacDonald
Mar 24, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Don't let the negative comments put you off. My partner and I both led this and thought it was well- protected and very fun. Perhaps it has just cleaned up a lot.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 16, 2013

It's still shedding. Sewing this up: #3.5 Camalot, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, red Alien. If you want to make it a touch harder, move left at the obvious jug/horizontal crack and do the arete briefly.