This route lies on the far right-side (east-face) of Coney Island.Locate three bolts up a steep, blocky face. Climb past the bolts tending left into a chimney/flared slot. Clip a bolt and make a long reach into a finger crack. Climb up steep rock on good jams to a good rest. Crank up past the last bolt making a dicey move to the anchor.
Five bolts and small to medium gear will get you to a two-bolt anchor.
A good rest for the final moves.
|By Kent Lugbill|
Nov 13, 2002
Make sure you bring Friends up to #3. This is not a sport route. It is well worth doing, but watch out for the loose block.
|By Chris Archer|
Jun 23, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
For many years, Bob has done an awesome job in opening numerous routes of all grades in the area. Unfortunately they can't all be gems, and IMHO this one falls into that category. After being bombarded with a steady stream of lichen, dirt, pebbles, and assorted other detritus, I got the coveted "second refused to follow! (or lead)." Maybe this route will clean up after significant traffic, but at present it is quite dirty. Some other minor points: the 4th bolt is placed too high to be clipped before beginning the crux stemming, necessitating small gear in a loose flake. Lowering the bolt would adequately protect the moves into the finger crack without having to risk ripping the gear in the movable flake. Also I'd agree with Kent's comment regarding the rack, in addition to small to finger-sized cams, I also placed #2, 2.5 and 3 Friends. Finally, why are the anchor bolts 4.5 feet apart from each other?! Is there another route planned beneath the leftmost of the bolts?
|By Andy Moore|
Jul 2, 2004
Once this cleans up a bit more, I think it deserves a star (or at least not a bomb). There are some cool moves up the crack and through the slot. Heed Chris' advice about gear in the loose flake before the 4th bolt. If you have a #3.5 Camalot or so, though, it provides bomber pro right below the loose flake. In retrospect, the move up to clip the 4th bolt wasn't bad, but I'm glad I had some gear.
|By kyle lefkoff|
Jun 13, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Climbed it 6/11 with Alkaitas leading, who jettisoned some impressive loose blocks from the base of the chimney. It is a worthy line in my view, and really a trad route with a bolt at the crux.
|By Nick Fury|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 26, 2009
That little chimney is really fun, you can completely stem out and rest for a minute.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Mar 24, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Don't let the negative comments put you off. My partner and I both led this and thought it was well- protected and very fun. Perhaps it has just cleaned up a lot.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 16, 2013
It's still shedding. Sewing this up: #3.5 Camalot, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, red Alien. If you want to make it a touch harder, move left at the obvious jug/horizontal crack and do the arete briefly.