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Preventing the sling from unclipping from the biner
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Aug 15, 2014
Me
eli poss wrote:
I second what Joan says about mental agility... I've climbed stoned once(alone of course) and I almost shit my pants out of fear (would that be a brown point or just a red point?).. Never climb while intoxicated or even sleepy, you very well may die or at least shit yourself

Considering your age and climbing skills the word "stoned" should not even be in your vocabulary. But I like the fact that you recognize paranoia as a side effect of marijuana and are able to put two and two together. 90 % of people on this site are recreational marijuana users and tend to glorify it quite a bit. Take it with a grain of salt and keep on the right track.
Joan Lee
Joined Jun 23, 2014
141 points
Aug 15, 2014
Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
Joan Lee wrote:
Well ye...When I'm passing meds it's not about how fast and how easy it's about how redundant and safe to avoid swiss cheese effect.


Uhhmm, WTF??

I would suggest further mastication when popping your Flintstones chewables. This will aid in digestion and help produce firmer stools.
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
800 points
Aug 15, 2014
Bocan
Ryan-G wrote:
I can't decide if this thread is a joke or not.


Ugh it's doing the typical 4 page slide into nonsense, bickering and Joan's anti-marijuana crusade which is found in like 3 other threads.

Thanks everyone for the input on the sling dilemma.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
Aug 15, 2014
...
"Never tie an overhand in a dyneema sling as it reduces strength"



ALL knots reduce strength on ropes, cord, webbing, etc...
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
Aug 15, 2014
Bocan
Locker wrote:
"Never tie an overhand in a dyneema sling as it reduces strength" ALL knots reduce strength on ropes, cord, webbing, etc...


Just because it's you locker...Couldn't resist :o)


knot
knot


Not!
Not!
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
Aug 15, 2014
Groove Tube - Tonsai, Thailand
Saw this new product in another thread on MP - looks like it's designed to prevent the very issue discussed in this thread. I couldn't find any info on pricing, but it looks like they're supposed to be available now

gearjunkie.com/best-in-show-ou...
PJHeinz83
From Pennsylvania
Joined Feb 19, 2013
15 points
Aug 15, 2014
pjheinz83 wrote:
Saw this new product in another thread on MP - looks like it's designed to prevent the very issue discussed in this thread. I couldn't find any info on pricing, but it looks like they're supposed to be available now gearjunkie.com/best-in-show-ou...


They look interesting... but you'd have to learn and practice a new clipping action to get smooth with them.
David Gibbs
From Ottawa, ON
Joined Aug 18, 2010
8 points
Administrator
Aug 15, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
^pretty cool product, but after years of clipping into wires, I wonder how much fumbling will occur trying to clip one of these when you're pumped and thrutching. Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,009 points
Aug 15, 2014
Colombian Crack
Tom-onator wrote:
Uhhmm, WTF?? I would suggest further mastication when popping your Flintstones chewables.


Fred Flintstones' names was Robert Paulson
Maurice Chaunders
Joined Sep 21, 2010
11 points
Aug 15, 2014
Profile Pic
Cor wrote:
Be careful with those sliders… I have been testing one out for awhile now, and the gate can stay open! If you clip something and let the gate snap shut it usually works just fine. If you slowly clip something, or another words let the locking mechanism go to the locked position before the gate closes… You have a problem. Look at the "sweet gate" photo. Hold the gate open, and take thumb off of lock. If this happens you can simply open the gate up wide, and let it snap shut. That solution always seems to work for the most part. Anyway point is: Pay attention! PS: They are real easy to clip! Rope or bolt..

The thing is that you will have to clean the sliders every so often, then they close just fine in my experience.
Moritz B.
Joined Mar 7, 2013
191 points
Aug 15, 2014
Flatirons
slim wrote:
i have a couple setups that i use with locking draws. one has a locker on the bolt end and a wiregate on the rope end (for sport climbing where there is hard climbing and something going wrong would be real bad, but i need to be able to clip the rope quickly). i also have a couple sport draws with lockers on both ends for times when i can clip from an easy stance, but the climbing above is hard and something going wrong would be real bad. usually in my sport pack i have 2 of each types. i also have a couple slings set up with double lockers for the same scenario on gear routes. it works well if you can get a good stance for futzing with gear and the lockers, but if you are in the middle of a gunfight it is kind of tough.


Seems surprisingly reasonable. It's not like you're going to put a locker on every piece, but having a couple slings/draws with a locker or two for the occasion when you really, really have to trust a piece seems sensible. As long as the locker is racked "unlocked" you can just clip it like normal if you are for some reason unable to lock it and/or don't need to. Slightly more futzing than normal but probably worth the peace of mind before you cast off...
Ryan Watts
From Bishop, CA
Joined Apr 15, 2013
49 points
Aug 15, 2014
Me
"PASSING meds" as in "GIVING meds" as in "Pass the pipe, dude"
The Grivel biner looks sweet! I am intending to give them a shot as well! I don't see a big issue clipping a rope into them at this point. Let's see what actual practice shows...
Joan Lee
Joined Jun 23, 2014
141 points
Aug 15, 2014
Me
Ryan Watts wrote:
Seems surprisingly reasonable. It's not like you're going to put a locker on every piece, but having a couple slings/draws with a locker or two for the occasion when you really, really have to trust a piece seems sensible. As long as the locker is racked "unlocked" you can just clip it like normal if you are for some reason unable to lock it and/or don't need to. Slightly more futzing than normal but probably worth the peace of mind before you cast off...

Lockers on long extended slings and maybe on a couple placements that precede a traverse. Definitely worth the peace of mind. This will make you think and plan out your gear placements more strategically.
Joan Lee
Joined Jun 23, 2014
141 points
Aug 16, 2014
Opposing wire gates (laughable), lockers, girth hitchs etc...on extended slings...really? Most of these so called solutions sound impractical, expensive/heavy, and potentially dangerous respectively. I think i'd rather take my chances with "gate flutter" while cruxing then trying to clip a sling with opposing niners; carrying lockers for all my extended slings on alpine routes would make my current credit card payment out of control and my pack really heavy - plus i'd probably hit something before i had to worry about "flutter", and girth hitching...i'd rather risk flutter and have the versatility of my slings not being hitched. What does flutter have to do with weed anyway? Ryan-G
From San Diego
Joined Oct 12, 2006
47 points
Aug 16, 2014
...
"What does flutter have to do with weed anyway?


Taking too large of a "Hit" can sometimes cause "Brain Flutter".
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
Aug 16, 2014
wow, just scrolled thru that entire post...i feel like i got "raped on 3mm" cord...ouch.

i'm in favor of the simple:

micro-locker (as suggested by steve)--the DMM one is great, Trango superfly good, and the Edelrid slider really dialed for this application. Edelrid makes two models--i've had one of the larger ones for several months...and between the two sizes, i'd get a few small ones--perfect for "critical" pieces, but also for something like rigging a Garda, third hand when "raping", etc....

or

two traditional 'biners, gates opposed/reversed.

either of the above requires an extra couple seconds of "fiddling" and given how rarely you really have to double up, seems like all the taping, hitching, knotting, rubber-banding is maybe more trouble than it's worth.

now, back to my burned flesh....raping on a 3mm? wayyyy less comfortable than 1" webbing...but that's just me and my tender skin........
coppolillo
Joined Sep 9, 2009
53 points
Aug 16, 2014
Half Dome
A couple of light lockers on your harness isn't much weight and seems like a pretty simple solution.

Does anyone know which route he was on? Best luck in the recovery.
Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2006
352 points
Aug 16, 2014
...
Pretty much routine for me is to always have at least two draws rigged with lockers.



For the record I got my nickname quite a few years back by going fucking totally overboard with the things ("Too Strong") My partners hated me more than not. Too often I'd wrench those fuckers down while listening to "Viva Las Vegas" in my head, all the while my legs going every which way.

Ah those were the days...
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,394 points
Aug 16, 2014
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenste...
Locker wrote:
Pretty much routine for me is to always have at least two draws rigged with lockers.


I started carrying a double runner with lockers after seeing who thinks it's a good idea and reading up on the benefits. I could see the weight disadvantage for some. Heck, When I leading more than one pitch I'm like a playboy model.. Insanely huge rack and a fat ass. A couple lockers ain't making the crux any harder than my love affair with sugar makes it for me.
Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Joined Jul 21, 2012
127 points
Aug 16, 2014
Bocan
Usually carry two homemade sport draws with lockers...I don't think trango makes them anymore, but they are two normal biner size lockers. probably bought them all up. Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
Aug 16, 2014
The weight of the lockers isn't what'll make it harder, it's fiddling with the lock while cruxing that makes a simple wiregate easier to clip. But what do I know, I'm using nylon slings eli poss
From Durango, sometimes Chattanooga
Joined May 9, 2014
84 points
Aug 16, 2014
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenste...
Nylon slings? Jeez, it's gotta be Gluten free. What about Gluten man! Think about the Gluten next time.

cruxing.. sounds kinky!
Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Joined Jul 21, 2012
127 points
Aug 16, 2014
Paul Hunnicutt wrote:
Does anyone know which route he was on?


They were on a new route in the vicinity of Young, Blonde and Easy on Lower Peanuts.
slevin
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,048 points
Aug 16, 2014
Bocan
eli poss wrote:
The weight of the lockers isn't what'll make it harder, it's fiddling with the lock while cruxing that makes a simple wiregate easier to clip. But what do I know, I'm using nylon slings


Unlocked on the sling. Clip and quick spin. not that bad if you are below your max
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
Administrator
Aug 17, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Bill Kirby wrote:
I started carrying a double runner with lockers after seeing who thinks it's a good idea and reading up on the benefits. I could see the weight disadvantage for some.


Petzl's Spirit lockers are light as a mofo.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,009 points


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