Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Preventing the sling from unclipping from the biner
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 4 of 6.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Dylan B.
Aug 14, 2014
Orgasm Direct, Devil's Lake, 5.11a  c. 2008
With C4s, would you consider using an alpine draw by basket hitching the sling through the thumb loop, and then using the two wiregates opposite and opposed on the rope?

FLAG
By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Aug 14, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
^not recommended, but would probably work.

jp.blackdiamondequipment.com/j...

FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Aug 14, 2014
Bocan
Steve Levin wrote:
This: (LOCKING CARABINER PICTURE)


A locker on every draw on a 50+ meter pitch? I think safety is important, but who is really going to do this?

FLAG
By CJC
Aug 14, 2014
From the BD link in Jakes's post ^^^

"Dyneema/Spectra doesn't hold a knot. Never use a knot with Dyneema/Spectra."

FLAG
By slim
Administrator
Aug 14, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
i have a couple setups that i use with locking draws. one has a locker on the bolt end and a wiregate on the rope end (for sport climbing where there is hard climbing and something going wrong would be real bad, but i need to be able to clip the rope quickly). i also have a couple sport draws with lockers on both ends for times when i can clip from an easy stance, but the climbing above is hard and something going wrong would be real bad. usually in my sport pack i have 2 of each types.

i also have a couple slings set up with double lockers for the same scenario on gear routes. it works well if you can get a good stance for futzing with gear and the lockers, but if you are in the middle of a gunfight it is kind of tough.

FLAG
By Joan Lee
Aug 14, 2014
Me
What about auto locking lockers? Does anybody make a small one of those?

FLAG
By Derek Doucet
Aug 14, 2014
CJC wrote:
From the BD link in Jakes's post ^^^ "Dyneema/Spectra doesn't hold a knot. Never use a knot with Dyneema/Spectra."


This is intended to dissuade people from tying straight dyneema into runners like we all did for decades with 1" tubular and later 11/16" tubular nylon. It has nothing to do with the knot discussion in this thread.

FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Aug 14, 2014
Bocan
Joan Lee wrote:
What about auto locking lockers? Does anybody make a small one of those?



Maybe the biwire would help?

backcountrygear.com/rockd-biwi...

Biwire
Biwire

FLAG
 
By slim
Administrator
Aug 14, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
Joan Lee wrote:
What about auto locking lockers? Does anybody make a small one of those?


i find autolockers more difficult to use for this type of thing. that being said, i have never really been a fan of them so i never got used to using them in general.

FLAG
By Greg D
From Here
Aug 14, 2014
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Dylan B. wrote:
With C4s, would you consider using an alpine draw by basket hitching the sling through the thumb loop, and then using the two wiregates opposite and opposed on the rope?


Not recommended. The thumb loop deforms when loaded and can cut dyneema which is why BD uses a doubled up nylon sling and DMM abandoned the thumb loop altogether when developing the dragon cams.

FLAG
By Dave Holliday
Aug 14, 2014
The one they call The Husky, Natasha Holliday, Esq...
Scott McMahon wrote:
A locker on every draw on a 50+ meter pitch? I think safety is important, but who is really going to do this?


I think Steve was suggesting to use a locker only on pieces of gear (or bolts) that are critical to keeping you off the deck in the event of a fall; that might only be the first two or three bolts of a typical sport route around these parts and maybe the same number of pieces of gear on a gear route. It depends, of course, on the difficulty of the moves, the spacing of the gear, and how likely it is that you might fall.

FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Aug 14, 2014
Bocan
Dave Holliday wrote:
I think Steve was suggesting to use a locker only on pieces of gear (or bolts) that are critical to keeping you off the deck in the event of a fall; that might only be the first two or three bolts of a typical sport route around these parts and maybe the same number of pieces of gear on a gear route. It depends, of course, on the difficulty of the moves, the spacing of the gear, and how likely it is that you might fall.


Thanks for the clarification Dave. Yeah that's something that I practice, although not all the time. I've used lockers or opposed two draws when I have etc.

FLAG
By Old Sag
Aug 14, 2014
Joan Lee wrote:
What about auto locking lockers? Does anybody make a small one of those?


Edelrid pure slider. At 42g it is light too.

Expensive though.

FLAG
By David Gibbs
From Ottawa, ON
Aug 14, 2014
Greg D wrote:
Also, do the laws of physics change when doing multi pitch vs cragging? Hmm.


The laws of physics don't change, but the maximum fall factor does. In single pitch climbing (cragging) it is (usually *) impossible to get a fall-factor that exceeds one. This can occur in multi-pitch climbing, and the possibility is present in most cases when the leader sets out from the belay on the 2nd (and later) pitches. (And, dealing with this possibility should be a consideration when engaged in multi-pitch climbing.)

(* usually: there are occasional single-pitch climbs that start from a ledge, in some such cases, a fall-factor greater than one may be possible. Usually, though, a leader would hit the ground before a FF > 1 could be achieved. )

FLAG
By Joan Lee
Aug 14, 2014
Me
Slider
Slider

FLAG
By Joan Lee
Aug 14, 2014
Me
Sweet gate!
Sweet gate!

FLAG
 
By Joan Lee
Aug 14, 2014
Me
Wow the sliders look sweet! At 18 bucks a piece surely steep but if you only need about 6 of them still not such a bad deal. I'm getting those! In the meantime I have some huge auto locking biners I will experiment with in the next few weeks for clipping. I'm also replacing my first 3 sport draw rope side biners with small lockers too. It's worth to spend some time with tightening the gate and get into the habit of it.

FLAG
By Cor
Aug 14, 2014
black nasty
Be careful with those sliders…

I have been testing one out for awhile now, and the gate can stay open!
If you clip something and let the gate snap shut it usually works just fine.
If you slowly clip something, or another words let the locking mechanism
go to the locked position before the gate closes… You have a problem.

Look at the "sweet gate" photo. Hold the gate open, and take thumb off of lock.
If this happens you can simply open the gate up wide, and let it snap shut.
That solution always seems to work for the most part.

Anyway point is: Pay attention!

PS: They are real easy to clip! Rope or bolt..

FLAG
By Mike Caracciolo
From Pompano Beach, Florida
Aug 14, 2014
Edge of time
I've experienced the same issue with the Omega Pacific Jake Auto Locker.

FLAG
By Joan Lee
Aug 14, 2014
Me
Well ye we all are supposed to pay attention period. I relate it to my job a lot. When I'm passing meds it's not about how fast and how easy it's about how redundant and safe to avoid swiss cheese effect. We have a saying " you can always give more but you can never take it away" (talking about meds). Critical thinking is huge. In climbing (even cragging) top mental agility is a must. We can get hurt, others can get hurt. Take your time and be a nerd to wear that helmet, check that draw , tie that knot and lock that biner. Break that complacency not that bone!

FLAG
By Old Sag
Aug 14, 2014
Joan Lee wrote:
Wow the sliders look sweet! At 18 bucks a piece surely steep but if you only need about 6 of them still not such a bad deal. I'm getting those! In the meantime I have some huge auto locking biners I will experiment with in the next few weeks for clipping. I'm also replacing my first 3 sport draw rope side biners with small lockers too. It's worth to spend some time with tightening the gate and get into the habit of it.


Do you mind posting a detailed review after you use one for a while? I'm thinking about getting these too, but like 10 of those and you can buy an entire rack!

Plus they do add some weight. No worse than any solid gates out there but at this point I'm all wire gates already.

FLAG
By Joan Lee
Aug 14, 2014
Me
I sure will. I will post my opinion and comparison review. I rack up for a pitch so weight is not a huge problem. Those days are gone when I brought my entire rack to use for a 50 ft pitch. ;)

FLAG
By eli poss
From Chattanooga
Aug 14, 2014
I second what Joan says about mental agility... I've climbed stoned once(alone of course) and I almost shit my pants out of fear (would that be a brown point or just a red point?).. Never climb while intoxicated or even sleepy, you very well may die or at least shit yourself

FLAG
By Greg D
From Here
Aug 15, 2014
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
David Gibbs wrote:
The laws of physics don't change, but the maximum fall factor does. In single pitch climbing (cragging) it is (usually *) impossible to get a fall-factor that exceeds one. This can occur in multi-pitch climbing, and the possibility is present in most cases when the leader sets out from the belay on the 2nd (and later) pitches. (And, dealing with this possibility should be a consideration when engaged in multi-pitch climbing.) (* usually: there are occasional single-pitch climbs that start from a ledge, in some such cases, a fall-factor greater than one may be possible. Usually, though, a leader would hit the ground before a FF > 1 could be achieved. )


Thanks for the elementary explanation of fall factors. That was cute.

Now back to the regularly scheduled program: preventing a rope or sling from unclipping inadvertently where fall factor may not be a factor.

FLAG
 
By Ryan-G
From San Diego
Aug 15, 2014
I can't decide if this thread is a joke or not.

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 4 of 6.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>