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Preventing a pendulum swing on top rope.

Original Post
Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86

I've tried finding info on placing directionals on sport bolts for top rope but have had no luck. I was recently at a crag where the particular route ran left of the anchors about midway through. A fall here resulted in the climber swinging wide right under the anchors into space. Since there was no rock to hit I considered it to be safe. However, another group suggested I place directionals to stop the swing. My question is, how does a top rope climber pass through the quickdraws at this point?
My thoughts are this, the leader leaves the quicks in for directionals. The top roper unclips when he reaches them. Where I'm confused is how does the climber reclip back into the directionals when he is being lowered into space, in order for other top ropers to go up? Must he down climb while being lowered? Or would the route have to be led again?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
JoeGaribay wrote:I've tried finding info on placing directionals on sport bolts for top rope but have had no luck. I was recently at a crag where the particular route ran left of the anchors about midway through. A fall here resulted in the climber swinging wide right under the anchors into space. Since there was no rock to hit I considered it to be safe. However, another group suggested I place directionals to stop the swing. My question is, how does a top rope climber pass through the quickdraws at this point? My thoughts are this, the leader leaves the quicks in for directionals. The top roper unclips when he reaches them. Where I'm confused is how does the climber reclip back into the directionals when he is being lowered into space, in order for other top ropers to go up? Must he down climb while being lowered? Or would the route have to be led again?
The follower could always trail a second rope and clip that to the directionals and then ultimately put that rope through the anchors.
Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86

We did have extra rope. That would work. Thanks. Curious how others would do it if there was only one rope.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Sufficient directionals usually allow the top roped climber to reclip them while being lowered.

If you are being lowered into space, you need to clip more directionals in order to reach the next draw on the way down.

La MoMoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60

Rather than clip just the directional, reclip all of the draws. Only the craziest, steeper climbs will have too much wide space between bolts that the climber on lower couldn't shuffle between each one.

A second rope is less than ideal unless it's a true traverse, because then the climber is futzing with the anchor. I try to avoid futzing as much as possible- shennanigans, fine, but no futzing.

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86

Thanks Csproul. I can visualize that perfectly. Makes all the sense. And having directionals would be good for the climber to be able to get back on the rock and keep climbing. But without directionals and no chance of being injured in a fall by hitting a wall(swinging into space), the climber would have to be lowered and forced to retry the climb from the ground up. I kind of like that approach

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
JoeGaribay wrote:Thanks Csproul. I can visualize that perfectly. Makes all the sense. And having directionals would be good for the climber to be able to get back on the rock and keep climbing. But without directionals and no chance of being injured in a fall by hitting a wall(swinging into space), the climber would have to be lowered and forced to retry the climb from the ground up. I kind of like that approach
Make sure you take into account any trees a swinging climber might hit and, while a fall higher up on the route might be all air into space, lower down could result in a ground fall.
Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86

Absolutely Marc801. I'd certainly use a directional to prevent danger. The route in question is Power Grid in Malibu Creek. I'll most likely use directionals here in the future but don't think they're entirely necessary

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
JoeGaribay wrote:We did have extra rope. That would work. Thanks. Curious how others would do it if there was only one rope.
I would have my belayer tie off directional to his right so that even though I was going to take the big swing we would not hit each other and he would be safe/stationary.
Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310

just don`t top rope ... lead

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86

Smart, Gription.

Theriault, I generally don't care much for top rope. I mostly lead. Led a few routes that day and set top ropes to help others learn how to build anchors.

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310

sometimes using extended alpine draws will help to catch them on the way down

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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