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Pretzel Logic 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Wonsavage 8/97
Page Views: 2,581
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Jeff creeping up on the send...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A short but very interesting and fun climb. A good way to break in to 5.12 climbing. The route involves power and some very balancy and technical moves.

Stick clip the first bolt and bust in to the steep part, big moves on really good holds. Move through this quickly so not to pump yourself out. Some interesting moves lead to a good, sharp, horn hold leading up to a few pinches a possible, knee-bar rest and a final, thin section that I've seen done many ways. Basically do what you can to follow the arete to the good holds at the top.

Location 

The farthest left bolted climb on the cliff.

Protection 

5 bolts to quick clips.


Photos of Pretzel Logic Slideshow Add Photo
Sam Todzia making the last big juggy move before t...
Sam Todzia making the last big juggy move before t...
Ladd getting through the juggy preamble to this te...
Ladd getting through the juggy preamble to this te...
jakob sending...
jakob sending...
Jeff down low on the steep stuff... jared on belay
Jeff down low on the steep stuff... jared on belay

Comments on Pretzel Logic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 11, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a great climb for anyone looking to break into 5.12 grades. It lends itself to anyone's style, whether you like big deadpoints, powerful squeezing, pinching, kneebars, or thin crimping. You can use any combination of the above techniques to achieve success on this climb!
By James Otey
From: NH
Jun 17, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The kneebar is bomber if you have a kneepad and aren't super tall
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 28, 2010

Here's a video Jakob took of me sending Pretzel Logic for the first time. I've been told of many ways to climb it... but this is what went down for me.

Make sure to switch it to 720p because mountain project removes the &hd=1 portion of my link. :(

By Eli Buzzell
From: Rumney
Jan 22, 2015

Does this climb stay relatively dry in the winter?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 24, 2015

The top of the climb has a few ledges that cold collect snow and it tops out in to a groove so if there is any melting going on I don't think it would be dry. All in all I'd say, not a good winter route (or cliff) but on a cold dry day it might just work...
By Eli Buzzell
From: Rumney
Mar 3, 2015

Thanks Lee,
I got on it today, and it went pretty okay, hopefully with tomorrow's warmer weather I'll be looking at a send if the rain holds out.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 5, 2015

cool! glad to hear you are getting after it regardless of this relentless winter :)
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