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A large cam or two is helpful in this section.
This mixed route starts to the right of Rye Crisp 5.8. Climb a runout slab to the first bolt. The hard sections are protected by bolts.
There are four bolts on the lower face. Lieback a wide crack to a groove which is protected by bolts. Pull out of the groove on the left and run it out to the top.
draws and misc gear to 3 inches
By Clint Ballard
From: Greeley, CO
Jun 13, 2008
The guide book calls this route 10c, with a 10d variation. I did the 10d variation and would agree with the grade. The first bolt was not run out and the face above it was harder then 10a. 10b/c? Large cams are very helpful regardless of which variation you climb.
From: Alpine, Utah
Aug 12, 2012
I can't believe this route is not more popular. I never see anyone on it. Two or three parties will be backed up on Rye Crisp and Just Say No, while this route sits empty. Good hard climbing at the bottom and top (with bolts) and fun 'protect you own climbing' in the middle. I think it is 10.b. You can do it with one or two big friends - like a 3" and/or a 4" - and some quick draws.