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Pretty Woman 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: R. Laird and C. Laird (10/08)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,552
Submitted By: ryan laird on Oct 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (129)
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At the last bolt. Pretty much shows the entire rou...

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

As the 1990 movie suggests, she’s a little dirty and rough around the edges, but she will clean up to be a keeper. Begin at the base of a small, black roof adjacent to the start of Hey Good Lookin’. Trend left towards a small, right-facing dihedral and continue up past a series of slabby ledge systems to a broad ledge below a second right-facing dihedral. Surmount the dihedral and launch into the pumpy, jug haul trending left out the roof. Above the roof, catch your breath and cut right to the new anchors.

Protection 

She always uses protection and is well-protected with 13 bolts. The anchor is two cold shuts approximately 3 feet left and below the lower anchor of Hey Good Lookin’. The route has been thoroughly cleaned for loose rocks, but the belayer should be aware of the potential for additional small rockfall.


Photos of Pretty Woman Slideshow Add Photo
About halfway....
About halfway....
Mike Keegan nearing the roof moves on Pretty Woman...
Mike Keegan nearing the roof moves on Pretty Woman...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 15, 2014
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Nov 18, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route! Definitely needs to clean up a bit but should do so nicely.... Crux to me (and others today) was not the roof but an awkward sequence around the 7th or 8th bolt. HUGE jugs thru the roof section!
By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Jul 26, 2009

A really fun climb with some thought provoking, enjoyable moves. The climb definitely needs a little cleaning. Some of the holds are going to come off in the near future, including the jug just past the slabby section and the 3rd or 4th bolt. When that one comes off, that section may become the crux and it will likely be a harder climb.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 20, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great movement, but the roof section makes me really nervous. Makes you feel like your tip toeing through a mine field. Continuous, thoughtful climbing.
By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Apr 20, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A few weeks ago I pulled a hold right before the roof and just before I clipped the bolt. Ended up falling 2 bolts down onto the ledge before the roof. I climbed back up to the roof just paranoid, everything looks fractured (probably not but in the moment it sure felt like it), consider a helmet leading this one.
By Geoff U
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good route, a little loose rock at the roof, but much better than before. Necessary holds are solid. Does anyone know why there is a small bell tied to the first bolt with a red ribbon?
By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Oct 8, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a great route and serves as a nice warmup for some of the harder routes. I thought the other 10a to the left is not nearly as good as a warmup. This one has more continuous and juggy moves through the upper section.

With that said, I also felt like I was tiptoeing through a minefield in the roof section. There is one hold marked with an x that I started to grab but let off once I saw the x. Definitely avoid that hold - it's about to go.
By KDog
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is really fun with good movement; however, the roof section and the few moves after it are riddled with sketchy stone. Be very careful about what you are yarding on in the roof (and make sure you're belayer is being attentive in that section too for their own sake!!). It'd get 3 stars for sure if it weren't for that choss.
By Count Chockula
From: Littleton, CO
Aug 26, 2011

Not sure where all the sketchy rock is...seemed pretty solid to me, even around the roof. Maybe I was just so focused on the biz I didn't notice (or grab) the "chossy" holds.

For me, the crux is the move out left and then slightly up to make the clip above the roof. I cranked it cleanly on my onsight attempt not two weeks ago, but yesterday I took a 20+ footer after moving too far left. Spent too much time milking the "rest" under the roof move. I couldn't quite get set up to make the clip above the roof. The holds are all there, I just botched it. It was by far the longest fall I have ever taken. Came out with only a nasty rope abrasion on my lower leg.
By Chip Loomis
Feb 25, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The route seems to be cleaned up. Only noticed one loose rock in the juggy top section, but it is small and avoidable (has an X).
By Jonny Hart
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 15, 2013

There's a softball-size block directly under the roof ready to blow out if pulled on hard (chalked). Keep right on crimper and work past left, good to go after, solid juggy holds through the roof 10-,
By Chad Volk
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 31, 2013

Pulled off an 8" rock out of the roof section today while warming up. Luckily, I was able to catch it and keep it from braining someone at the base. Stay safe out there.
By Jeremy C
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 13, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Seems pretty clean now under the roof. Really fun movements on ridiculously good jugs through the roof traverse section.
By Metty
May 6, 2014

Climbed this today, and saw three or four critical holds right under the roof were about to pop off. Be careful.
By Andy B
May 10, 2014

Rock seemed solid to us. We made the mistake of lowering the second to clean it. Definitely awkward. Rap to clean.
By drewhouser
Sep 15, 2014

All the "critical" holds seem to be solid as a rock. ;) If you are grabbing at loose stuff...stop it.