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 ADVANCED
Above Anthrax
Select Route:
Climb with a View T 
Late Night Chalk Show S 
Ponyboy S 
Pretty Piece of Flesh S 
Riverboat Gambler S 
Solo Crack T,TR 
Who is Bernd Arnold? S 

Pretty Piece of Flesh 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Keith Hengen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,244
Submitted By: computerskillclimbing. on May 16, 2010

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Working up into the boulder problem separating the...

Description 

Scramble up some ledges and pull onto the slab. The rock quality is impressive for the slab, and the moves are fun. Move up the increasingly steep rock to the joint of the overhanging arrette/fin. Clip the last two bolts in the overhang, and bust through a burly boulder problem, following the line straight up from the last bolt. Safest to stay off of the fin 6 feet to your left - the rock seems a little more rotten there (although it would probably make for easier climbing, but the obvious line is harder, more fun, and on good rock).

Once you've reached the top, traverse right to the anchor. Let out a good yell to show the locals how strong you are.

If you're lacking the cannonballs to lead, the TR isn't a good idea. If you blow it above the last bolt (at the crux) you're going to smack into the dihedral on your right. Probably a better idea to just enjoy punting into space on overhanging glue-ins.


Location 

The top cliff band that houses the rest of Above Anthrax has an obvious break about 100' to the South of "Who is Bernd Arnold? (5.8)". This is just left (South) of the impressive roof. The break in the cliff is punctuated by a huge fin sticking out of a green dihedral on the top right wall - that's your climb! Scramble through slippery pine needles to the bottom of the slab. It's easiest to belay from the trail, not the ledges.


Protection 

7 bots to lower off. Glue ins!



Photos of Pretty Piece of Flesh Slideshow Add Photo
I forgot my left shoe - Chris (from Milwaukee?) had a pair of Anasazi velcros that fit perfectly. He didn't even hesitate to hand it over for the climb. This is one of the best climbing communities I've ever come across.
I forgot my left shoe - Chris (from Milwaukee?) ha...
Stewart on Pretty Piece of Flesh
Stewart on Pretty Piece of Flesh
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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 17, 2010

Nice work Keith. This climb looks rad!

By computerskillclimbing.
May 17, 2010

Thanks John. I'm pretty psyched to develop some new lines in WI. I think that with a "new school" mindset - i.e. looking for overhangs, roped boulder problems, and more dynamic movement - there's still a lot of "four star" climbs to be discovered here. I'm a little disappointed with rock quality and a lack of really tall features, but I can't afford to be too picky.

Hope you enjoy.

- keith

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 21, 2010

I'm pretty excited that you are going out and finding these new lines. The more you ad, the more I have to look forward to. If you ever need any help or a belay, IM me. I live in Watertown, like 1.5 hrs from the lake and about 2 hrs from Necedah, but I will make the trip for sweet shit like this!

By computerskillclimbing.
May 31, 2010

Found an easier sequence through the crux - now it feels like 11c/d, probably a little tougher for shorter climbers. Can be a solid 12+ if you miss some hidden gems...

By Tradoholic
Jul 4, 2010

I tried way left on the fin and I agree the holds are suspect. It would be a cool feet cutting sequence but A. the bolt placement would send you on an epic whipper into the dihedral, B. your feet cutting would probably hit the left wall which is unfortunately too close. Damn!

I wound up cutting right to the dihedral and finishing that way, although big swinger if you fall there too.

By computerskillclimbing.
Jul 5, 2010

Nick - Yeah, I put the top bolt in after much thought. I wanted to make sure that climbers followed the intended line - too far left and the rock is soft, too far right and it's an easier climb up the dihedral. Stay straight up the overhanging bulge and it's good rock, a clean fall, and some hard moves. Hope you enjoy!