Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Arsenal
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Caesar 
Chain Gang, The 
Climb- A- Dime- A- Ding- Dang 
Colinator, The 
Das Fruit Machine 
Debaser 
Doctor Epic 
Dope Party 
Fresh Loaf 
Jamboree (Jam-bor-knee) 
Lolanator 
Los Hermanos de la Penitente de los Matador Pantalones 
Path, The 
Pollinator, The 
Pretty Hate Machine 
Pump-O-Rama 
Rendezspew 
Salty 
Slagissimo 
Smarmacus Maximus 
Sprayathon 
Spurt-a-tron 
Squeal Like A Pig 
Turtle Power 
Use It Or Lose It 
Vitamin D 
Vitamin H 

Pretty Hate Machine 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Landin
Page Views: 6,063
Submitted By: richard magill on Dec 28, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Bad beta!

Description 

Super-mega-ultra-classic! It is possibly the best sport route in the universe.

This route is rated 12b in the guides, but I think there is a broad consensus among everyone who climbs it that it is at least a letter grade harder than that.

This line is on the far left side of the Arsenal. It can be easily recognized by the fixed, chain draws.

The first difficulties are encountered early, where you do a series of 12a/b underclinging and sidepulling maneuvers to get past a small roof. The hardest part about the first 20 feet is tricky, slippery footwork.

Next, you enter a long stretch of big reaches on steep stone, all to good holds, but it is very pumpy. After a somewhat energy-sapping clip, you will do a little 12a maneuvering to a jug, where you will set up for the crux.

This involves a tenuous, middle 12 reach off of two slopers to a square-cut, arete-type feature. After standing, this move all the way up, there are jugs. It is wise to recover here, because there remains an 11+ roof above guarding the anchors.

If you send it, humble yourself by remembering that it is still one of the easiest lines in the Arsenal.


Protection 

9 bolts with fixed chains.



Photos of Pretty Hate Machine Slideshow Add Photo
What a cool line through this roofy section!!  Burly underclinging!  Very very fun!! <br />Photo by Neil Berget
What a cool line through this roofy section!! Bur...
Near the good rest below the crux.
Near the good rest below the crux.
Resting up after the burly opening section.
Resting up after the burly opening section.
Pretty Hate Machine.
Pretty Hate Machine.
Resting just below the PHM crux.
Resting just below the PHM crux.
Comments on Pretty Hate Machine Add Comment
Show which comments
By richard magill
Sep 16, 2002

For what it's worth, Dave Pegg's new "Western Sloper" guide also calls this route 12c.

By tim naylor
Sep 11, 2007

The second bolt looked pretty rusty to me, at least in limestone.

By Marc H
From: Lafayette, CO
Nov 27, 2007

I've never even been to Rifle, and I feel like I climbed the route by reading the description. No need to go now I guess.

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Apr 17, 2008

Marc, that's one of the better excuses I've heard from people that are too scared to go to Rifle and get their ass kicked. Good one!

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 14, 2013

This March, PHM was rebolted (all protection bolts) with glue-in Wave Bolts, supported by the ASCA . Aluminum carabiner pulled and replaced with steel and a steel biner with chain added at first bolt. All of the quicklinks were replaced with new stainless quicklinks.

Here's the story and here's some pics, before and after. Enjoy.