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Devil's Den Bouldering
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Pretty Bloc Swag 

Hueco: V11 Font: 8A

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Hayden Miller
Page Views: 2,037
Submitted By: Eric Heiden on Feb 19, 2012

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Mid way through the second crux.

Description 

A new contender for Pawtuckaway's best problem. FA'd by Hayden Miller on 12/16/2011.

From Hayden's description on sendage.com:
"Start matched on left slopper rail. Move up through gastons and crimps to arete then compress your way to the lip. Exit left."

I will add that (as someone who has many years of improvement ahead to even have a hope of doing this climb) it looks like an absolute instant classic.

Note: The 4-star rating of this route is passed along from Hayden's sendage.com report, where he suggest 5 stars - the maximum possible on sendage.

Location 

From Leave It To Beaver continue just to the right around the corner (if the water is frozen you can walk right around the boulder, otherwise you'll need to do some scrambling).

Protection 

Multiple pads and spotters. This is tall and is not a gimme at the top.


Photos of Pretty Bloc Swag Slideshow Add Photo
Tom on Pretty Bloc Swag. Provides some scale.
Tom on Pretty Bloc Swag. Provides some scale.
Start position.
Start position.
Nearing the mantle.
Nearing the mantle.

Comments on Pretty Bloc Swag Add Comment
Show which comments
By Hayden Miller
Apr 23, 2012
rating: V11 8A

Glad this got put up on here. Hopefully it will help motivate people to get out on this rig.

As I wrote on Sendage, I started this line matched on the left sloper rail. The rail was very good and it seemed the most logical location to pull onto the boulder. I immediately put my heel on and did a very unique mantle type move off of the gaston rail to the right onto my heel then crossed over myself with my left hand to the flat crimp. From there it is easy to reach out to the arete and start compressing upwards. A jug exists at two thirds height where I was able to get a pretty good shake. From there, I grabbed a pinch on the arete just above the jug and did another mantle type move with my heel on the jug so I could gain the left sloper arete. I found this move very committing when trying it from the start. A few quick compression moves gets you standing on the jug and then I brought my feet out left to do a tenuous mantle onto the slab. I found this exit both the easiest and most secure. It kept me over the flat landing, as opposed to trying to go right and head up the main arete. The boulder is listed as 15' in the description but I would say 20' is a better approximation. I think it breaks down to something like V8/9 (opening sequence to gain arete) to V9 (compression to jug) to V7 (jug to mantle).

In my opinion, the 5th star is a personal star that only exists between the individual and boulder. For me, this problem earns the 5th star. It was my first hard problem after injuring my pulley 4 months earlier and there were a lot of mental barriers I had to overcome as to whether the problem was possible for me. Regardless of my opinion, the great rock quality, clean line, flat landing, and unique movement of this problem make it one of the best around.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 23, 2012

It looks gorgeous. I wish I was climbing that hard to give it a serious go.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 27, 2013

One of the most aesthetic problems at Pway. Absolutely brilliant. Amazing send, Hayden.
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
May 15, 2014

Video of Pretty Bloc Swag at ~6:37: