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The profile of Presten dominates the view along the road to Henningsvaer. A clean sweep of granite rising about 1300 feet almost directly out of the ocean, its hard to not want to climb it. The barrel shaped wall has several different aspects, but most of the popular routes, including Lofoten's most sought after route, "Vestpillaren", are on the center/right section of the nose. This section of the wall is in the shade most of the morning and early afternoon, and goes into the sun in the afternoon and stays sunny late into the night when the midnight sun is shining.
From the camping area beneath the Gandalf Wall, walk up the road until at the parking area on the right side of the road directly below Presten. It takes about 5-10 minutes to walk from the camping area to the parking area, and another 10 - 15 minutes from there to the base of the wall.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Presten:
Vestpillaren 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 12 pitches, 1300'
Featured Route For Presten
Vestpillaren 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Europe : Norway : ... : Presten
The most famous and sought after route in Lofoten, and likely one of the better long 5.10 free climbs you will ever do. A short approach, pitch after pitch of fun and varied climbing, all on a clean granite wall rising above the emerald waters of the Norwegian Sea. Justifiably, the route is popular and it is not uncommon to see a party on almost every pitch on a sunny afternoon. But during midsummer, you can climb it at any time of the day or night so with the right strategy you can still avo...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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