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Routes in 2. The Main Amphitheater- Fall Wall
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Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Alligator Sex Farm T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Could be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dark and Stormy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dark Arts T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Death and Taxes T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fade to Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Lakshmi Singh T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Last Laugh T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Logic Bomb T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Plasma Center T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pressure Drop T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rough around the Edges T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Speaking in Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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There will be Blood T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Kyle Edmonson, JJ Schlick |
| Page Views: | 2,707 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on May 5, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
In some ways this is one of the most aesthetic lines in the Amphitheater when viewed from below. There’s just something about it. I equipped this line and spent a bit of time trying to redpoint it, but eventually the math wasn’t adding up and life being life, got in the way of itself. Despite the fantastic climbing and stellar positioning, I regretfully stepped aside. My old tatty draws swayed in the breeze for far too long. Kyle was eventually kind enough to clean the fixed draws and send the route. When asked for a name, his suggestion seemed fitting to all involved for various reasons. For what it’s worth, I thought this was a little harder than the given grade.
Start as for Rough Around the Edges, but where that route breaks off right, continue straight up. There is a #1 BD in a pod by the break before the steep climbing and the bolts begin. The upper portion of the route is both burly and sequential, while offering several hard boulder problems sectioned by adequate shakes. Follow bolts through the stunning obtuse dihedral. If you can.
One can climb left from the Rough Around the Edges anchor to the Pressure Drop anchor via a two bolt traverse if you want to hang draws, retrieve them, or set a TR.
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