Pressure Drop 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Dan Hare and Pete Steers 1974 |
| Submitted By: | J. Thompson on Sep 24, 2002 |
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Ray, above the crux, with the mighty Crescent Arch...
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Pressure Drop is located in the center of the Crescent Wall. The initial 40 feet or so are shared with the route Kool Aid. Start on a block/flake leaning against the wall, then climb the splitter finger crack and pass a crux at 5.10d. When you reach the fixed pin climb the crack/seam the angles up and right. You will pass another crux at 5.10d and at least 1 more maybe in the 5.10a range. Be warned that the gear gets THIN! In a couple of spots it looks like you won't be getting anymore gear, keep climbing there is gear! You will want to be good with RPs. There is no move harder than 5.10d, but the route is given 5.11a due to its sustained nature. The seam ends at a large flake/small ledge that is pasted to the wall, either walk on top of it or drop down and hand traverse to the anchor on the right side (bolts). Rappel off these bolts to descend. You will rap down the route Finger Lick'n Good. Enjoy!
Protection You will need a set to set and a half of nuts.1 set of RPs- include the little ones. Cams to a .75 Camalot- and you probably won't use anything bigger than an orange TCU. There is one fixed pin (LA).
Rob Kepley placing gear before the first crux. Th...
| Rob is in the middle of the second crux section. ...
| Pressure Drop on a cold, sunny day. The traverse a...
| Starting the crack crux.
| Starting the traverse. There's a decent rest here ...
| Getting the gear in. You can see several pieces of...
| A classic photo, but it's about to get ugly. Photo...
| There are a couple more hard sections, and my fore...
| Awesome route, hope to get it clean next time.
| One of the best routes I have done at Lumpy.
| Buster Jesik on the traverse of Pressure Drop.
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| Comments on Pressure Drop |
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By Brian Milhaupt From: Golden, CO Jun 15, 2003 rating: 5.11a
| The fixed pin is no longer there. It is possible to lower from the anchor and belay from the ground with a 60m cord. None of the moves were too hard, but setting and moving above the RPs is a little heady. |
By Tom Kimbrell Jun 25, 2003
| A brilliant pitch off the beaten track. The upper traversy section requires deft footwork and confidence in leaving suspect gear a bit behind. |
By Bruce Morris From: Belmont, CA Oct 7, 2004 rating: 5.11a
| I always thought that Dan Hare et al had done the FA of "Finger Lickin'", but that it was myself and the late Eric Weinstein who did the first FA of "Pressure Drop" on Crescent Wall. In any case, it certainly was Eric who named it after the Jimmy Cliff tune (one of his favorites). Likewise, I know it was Eric who placed the pin (the one that fell out) since I was belaying him at the time (Jan./Feb. 1977). Victor Creazzi from the Gunks had tried the route back in 1973-74 and there were some other earlier attempts, too. Eric and I were the ones who aided up the first crux and cleaned all the dirt out of the crack, so I suspect there wasn't an earlier FA than ours. |
By Bruce Morris From: Belmont, CA Oct 26, 2004 rating: 5.11a
| In any case, Eric W. and I probably did the first ascent of both pitches as one. I think what people didn't like was that it was described in Climbing magazine as the "hardest crack climb in Colorado"! Certainly not the case, even in 1977! Nice route though. I remember now that Eric Doub tried it in 1975, too. |
By nolteboy Nov 28, 2005
| Brilliant. I and my partner both shed a little blood somewhere above the small roof (at ~30 feet?)... probably due to our famously sloppy technique, but we both wished we'd taped. |
By J. Thompson From: denver, co Nov 6, 2006
| Bruce...an interesting post! When I added this route I had just climbed the route, and not knowing the history myself had referenced a guidebook for the reported FA. My apologies!! |
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Apr 28, 2007 rating: 5.11a
| Great climbing with awesome views. I had previously been on this route back in JULY of 2001! I almost melted that day from the heat. Today was also very hot up there. I would recommend doing this route on a sunny day in Feb. Very continuous at the grade with tricky gear stances. Good footwork a must! |
By ElMidd Jun 23, 2007
| Pete Steres and Scott Woodruff did the first ascent -- well-before Bruce M's 1977 ascent. |
By Ivan Rezucha From: Boulder, CO Dec 2, 2007
| I followed Greg up this last Tuesday. Greg was solid, but was struggling a bit getting in the last nut before the final hard move. The crack crux was much harder than the traverse for me--I couldn't do it, and left a lot of skin behind. I hung on the traverse before the last move to rest and avoid a potential swinging fall. The gear on the traverse is good, except the final nut which is small and single and placed from a difficult stance. Just before that Greg had 3 good but small nuts. They were all in a horizontal and over an edge, but something would have held. I'm wondering what kind of gear was used on the FA? No pins? It looks like pins would have worked. Did you (whoever) have brass nuts back then or only the flimsier #1 and #2 stoppers? |
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Jun 13, 2009
| The bottom section has some CLASSIC super awkward, strange, flared Lumpy jams, but sews up well. The RP traverse is NOT for the timid, hence we bailed. |
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