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After a long, arduous hike, I began to wonder if I had wasted my time and energy. Presiding Nymph did not disappoint. It climbs even better than it looks, and I'm pretty sure that I drooled when I first saw it. Some of the jams are funky, but they are so sweet! Then there are these stretchy stems at the crux that make your pants split! It gets narrow fast, and you start to squeeze a little, but a bomber wrist lock bails you out and deposits you on a sloping ledge. A short crack guards the top. Here, wide hands or narrow fists supplement fantastic foot jams. The rock here is gritty and it exfoliates a steady stream; however, the rock instills more confidence than you would first imagine.
Find a super-obvious right-leaning crack in the center of the Gallant Wall and climb it. Rappel from slings and rappel rings.
A selection of nuts and cams to a #2 camalot should suffice. All of the routes on the Gallant Wall share the same slings and rappel rings on a tree. There is no fixed protection on this route.
Stems and jams, oh so sweet...
BETA PHOTO: Presiding Nymph is the obvious, right-leaning crac...
Quite the bottleneck...
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 18, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
A selection of no nuts and cams from BD .4 to 3 with doubles on #2 and #3 would be more appropriate. It's a handcrack after all... Tape useful.
Helmet for the belayer who will get doused by a shower of choss.
The rap tree is dead, the massive pine tree 20' back on the ledge will force your ropes in a slot and get them stuck, rap off a small solid pine to the right. Beware of the huge dead pine and large pieces of choss ready to be dislodged when you pull the rope.
As grungy as it looks but surprisingly fun.