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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 239
Submitted By: MacM on Nov 4, 2011
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Belaying from the anchors on Presidente

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Partially Closed.


Begin at Debutante and follow up to second belay stance.
Pitch 1: Just right of the large right-facing dihedral start by oak trees. Climb thin corner (5.4) to a narrow shelf then traverse left 10' Climb up past a flake and move up a bottoming crack to a belay ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb up right across a slab to the base of a left-facing corner and below a lichen-covered pillar. Climb up the cracks in the corner (5.10a) past a bolt to the summit belay.


Start at Debutante, then at second belay climb right to bolt then straight up. Scramble off back side to Descent Gully.


Wide selection of gear, Small to Large cams to #4 C4. TCU's and stoppers as well. One Fixed/glued Piton for belay anchor at ledge.

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By metcalfd
From: Reston VA
Oct 11, 2012

Felt less than 5.10a. More like a 5.9. Still a fun route!

By Kevin Keith
Oct 29, 2012

Guidebook from the 80's has this as a variation to missing link and rates it at 5.9. A rap chain has been added at the top; 35 meters or 115 feet to the ground.

By Kevin Keith
Sep 30, 2013

Presidente Direct is a direct start from the ground to the upper dihedral. Climb up the very shallow right facing corner to ledge and continue past two new bolts (10) and continue past bolt on missing link. Continue face climbing with good gear upward into El Presidente's dihedral. This variation climbed in 1990 with very bad gear. Retro-bolted in 2012.