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T-Wall East
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Prerequisite for Excellence 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Ordner, Roy Briton, Rob Robinson - 1985
Page Views: 6,598
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 18, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Base of climb. Follows crack to ring anchors at to...

Description 

Beautiful rock, great pro and challenging moves make this one of the best for the grade at T-Wall. Move up a short corner to a nice ledge, then follow a long left-facing corner with the occasional overhang up to ring anchors at the top.


Location 

Starts about 10' right of Multiple Use Area, not far down the trail from the Plastic Toys arete.


Protection 

Small to medium gear (cams, tricams, hexes, maybe some nuts). Bolted anchors.



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By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Nov 18, 2006

This is a great line and is one of the easier 5.8s on the cliff. After cruising this one, go try 'Dirt Bag' which is one of the harder 5.8s on the cliff.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jan 16, 2007

Ah, Dirt Bag it is. I've got that one in my sights. And you're right about Prerequisite, it's one of my favorite 5.8 leads at T-Wall.

By 426
Mar 8, 2007

Bottom part (above the first mini-dihedral) is a bit loose; some larger cams (3-4) can be nice for the middle section.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Mar 17, 2008

I somehow managed to get a yellow TCU stuck near the roof traverse on this climb about a week ago. Apparently it walked itself behind a large crystal. Good luck--the cam's yours if you can get it out.

By nickpoppel
Sep 29, 2009

A little easy for an 5.8. Passages is way better. Still a fun route with good gear.

By BTodd
Feb 25, 2012

This route and the ones next to it are great, however, the left anchor bolt for this route is loose - the bolt spins - you can try to twist it back in, but you can tug it out with your hand easily...
I don't know which organization replaces anchors at t-wall, but we should let them know, apparently they have been replacing a bunch lately...

By ChillFancy
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jun 17, 2012

Climbed this today and anchors felt tight to hand inspection. The way these anchors are on top of the climb leads to some pretty bad rope drag for toprope.

By Wei-Ming
From: Atlanta, GA
Mar 20, 2014

To whomever extended the bolt anchors with chains, thank you! The anchors are bomber. (March 2014)