Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Poe Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brothers in Arms 
Edge of Fright 
Eyes of the World 
Maelstrom, The 
Mississippi Half-Step 
Off Your Rocker 
Prequel to the Sequel 
Uptown Toodeloo 

Prequel to the Sequel 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Reeser & Dave Montgomery, 1-9-13
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall/Winter
Page Views: 784
Submitted By: Monty on Jan 9, 2013
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Matt cruxin' on the FA.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

It's so cool to think that this route has been sitting in plain sight, just waiting for somebody motivated enough to claim it. This is a beautiful pitch that demands focus until the very end.

Prequel to the Sequel is the direct start to the 2nd pitch of the Edge of Fright but also has its own steep headwall finish. Directly above the bolted anchor, a seam starts 15 feet up. Slab and face climb this seam past a pin (11+ PG-13) with fidely gear to a jug rest. Calm your head, then climb a tips crack that dead ends at a steep wall. Crimp and face climb the seam through the steep wall (crux), with a hard to place nut that eventually gives way to the twin cracks of Edge of Fright. Follow the "Edge" for 30 feet until it is possible to switch to the left crack and power out the steep headwall finale (11+).


Location 

This is between the 2nd pitches of Edge of Fright and Mississippi Half Step. It is listed as project #9 in the New Fixed Pin Book.


Protection 

A lone pin (that hasn't been whipped on) and lots of small gear, nothing bigger than a #0.5 Camalot.... Some of the gear can be very tricky to find, but every piece is bomber.

Descend using the fixed nut anchor on top of Mississippi Half-Step. A 70m rope is required.



Photos of Prequel to the Sequel Slideshow Add Photo
Stepping left to the final headwall.
Stepping left to the final headwall.
Comments on Prequel to the Sequel Add Comment
Show which comments
By dameeser
From: denver
Jan 9, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b PG13

Hard, mentally and physically. The gear on this route is safe, you just need to know where it is. Slab to hard face to overhanging crack, fantastic!