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Preparing for Red Rocks
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Apr 16, 2013
My cool Elly....
Is there anything missing besides the ropes?

Gear
Gear


Or am I gonna die???? :-)
Pitty
From Marbach
Joined Apr 27, 2011
68 points
Apr 16, 2013
Can't quite tell what kind of shoes you have there (or what kind of routes you plan to do!) but based on the huge range of trad gear you're bringing: something for all-day comfort that jams well is nice for RR. And an approach shoe that is both comfortable on some pretty substantial approaches while being light enough to carry on the routes. TC pro's and Guide Tennies worked well for me.

Have fun!
Optimistic
From New Paltz
Joined Aug 29, 2007
246 points
Apr 16, 2013
Wow. That's a lot of stuff! It's all good, though. After about 35 days of RR climbing over the last few years (virtually all up in the canyons) I've learned a little about the place. Since it looks like you're preparing for more than just sport climbing, here's just a couple of barely-gear-related thoughts. 1) Good approach shoes with sticky rubber (the approaches/descents are long and rugged and often include 3rd/4th class terrain), 2) water (bring more than you think; tank up in the morning, bring two quarts for a full day, plus another quart stashed for the walk out is a good idea), 3) rodents (they are everywhere and they are clever---they will rip open any gear you leave at the base looking for food; leave your pack and any zipped pockets open and put any food in a critter-proof container and bury the container under big rocks), 4) big cams (you will use up to a #4 on virtually every long route, beyond that, go with the description in Jerry's book and the comments here on Mt. Project; if you don't need them, don't carry them!), 5) doubles (take the gear notes seriously, if it says you need six #2's, well, yeah, scrounge six somehow). Heat (our last trip was for 10 days in May when every days was 90+---we climbed comfortably every day; play the sun/shade thing well and you'll be fine. Have a great time! Peter Lewis
From Bridgton, Maine
Joined Oct 31, 2009
566 points
Apr 16, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Pitty wrote:
Is there anything missing besides the ropes? Or am I gonna die???? :-)


I'm just worried about if you know how to use any of that stuff, I don't see a scratch on anything;)
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,504 points
Apr 16, 2013
Too much sport draw !!
You definitely need to replace the sport draw with 60cm (24 inch), at least 3/4 of them need to be trad draw
waltereo
Joined Jul 7, 2007
5 points
Apr 16, 2013
Are you aiding or freeing? divnamite
From New York, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2007
213 points
Apr 16, 2013
LOL at double 6's, triple .3 and .4's but only one 2

that photo is rich, good luck spending all day in those fancy shoes
S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Apr 16, 2013
waltereo wrote:
Too much sport draw !! You definitely need to replace the sport draw with 60cm (24 inch), at least 3/4 of them need to be trad draw


This.

Sport draws are not so good for trad climbing in Red Rock- lots of the pitches wander. People who place regular draws on their cams are people who get cams stuck. I carry a minimum of 12 alpine (trad) draws, but you could probably get away with 6 of each, or maybe 8 trad draws, 4 sport draws.

You can probably leave the second #5 and #6 unless you're planning on doing Adventure Punks or Ixtlan or other particularly wide stuff.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,395 points
Apr 16, 2013
My cool Elly....
Thank you all,

first of all, it' not the first visit to RR, last time we made the super-classics like Levi 29, DOWT, POD and so on....

Adventure Punks as well....

This time it is for Rainbow Wal, Ixtilan, Texas conection, Sandstorm Samurai and some other cool ones....

Sport draws are for the rest days doing some single pitch sports.... trad slings can be made using the slings bottom left.
The shoes are tested and proofed, although fancy quite comftable..

Cma No. 2 are two on the foto, three in reality.... but think I'll take double only.
And the stuff is used, some new ones are replacements for old ones... OK, No. 6 and 5 are brandnew, only one 6 was used once.... :-)

I hope we will have fun! No I'm sure we will!
Pitty
From Marbach
Joined Apr 27, 2011
68 points
Apr 16, 2013
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Wow! Peter Lewis' advice is rockin! Listen to him for sure. Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Joined Nov 23, 2012
10 points
Apr 16, 2013
One more thing. After a long thrashy day in the canyons, go to Blue Diamond and by Fudgesicles at the funky little store and eat them sitting on the grass (that's the cool green stuff that is outside on the ground under that big tree where it is perfectly okay to fall asleep). Peter Lewis
From Bridgton, Maine
Joined Oct 31, 2009
566 points
Apr 16, 2013
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...
Not enough beer or cigarettes. Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,632 points
Apr 16, 2013
Directions to the Bonnie Springs Ranch for cold beer and tater skins post send? cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
257 points
Apr 16, 2013
Cujo 5.11d Red Rocks
I noticed you have petzl rubber sport draw ends (or whatever they are called) on your cams...I'm just curious why you did that does it make clipping them easier? Seems like a good idea.

Also don't forget many nalgenes.
Mostafa
From Alameda, CA
Joined Sep 26, 2011
640 points
Apr 16, 2013
Andy Hansen wrote:
Not enough beer or cigarettes.
Or weed... You're gonna need a spliffy after sending sandstone samurai.
Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined May 8, 2011
240 points
Apr 16, 2013
My cool Elly....
Mostafa wrote:
I noticed you have petzl rubber sport draw ends (or whatever they are called) on your cams...I'm just curious why you did that does it make clipping them easier? Seems like a good idea. Also don't forget many nalgenes.


Yes: that's why I have them on... you definetly clip them easier!

Nalgenes we have 4 x 1 Liter......
Pitty
From Marbach
Joined Apr 27, 2011
68 points
Apr 16, 2013
My cool Elly....
Rob Fielding wrote:
Or weed... You're gonna need a spliffy after sending sandstone samurai.

Don't smoke, not even Cigarettes...... have you done the Samurai?
Pitty
From Marbach
Joined Apr 27, 2011
68 points
Apr 17, 2013
My cool Elly....
Mostafa wrote:
When you clip a alpine draw or quickdraw to it wont the rubber be in the way? Or do you just clip the alpine to the biner on the cam then extend? I might have to just try it and see!


just use a sling with a single biner and clip it in. If the crack is straight, I clip it directly in....
Pitty
From Marbach
Joined Apr 27, 2011
68 points
Apr 17, 2013
you need a fat roll of 1 dollar bills brah. bergbryce
From California
Joined Aug 23, 2009
112 points
Apr 17, 2013
My cool Elly....
bergbryce wrote:
you need a fat roll of 1 dollar bills brah.


???? can you explain? pls.....
Pitty
From Marbach
Joined Apr 27, 2011
68 points
Apr 17, 2013
He's going to Vegas. I'm sure you can imagine a use for a fat roll of small bills. Derek Doucet
Joined Apr 26, 2010
193 points
Apr 17, 2013
Andy Hansen wrote:
Not enough beer or cigarettes.


+1
R.Walters
Joined Sep 27, 2006
350 points
Apr 17, 2013
Rupal face rack
Rupal face rack


This is the rack House and Anderson took on the Rupal Face of Naga Parbat.
Funny these two photos of racks were posted to the interwebs the same day.
cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
257 points
Apr 17, 2013
Dow Williams, 2011
Preparing? Just remember...it is not as much about all the gear you have...but many times more important in how you use it. Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
186 points
Apr 17, 2013
My cool Elly....
Dow Williams wrote:
Preparing? Just remember...it is not as much about all the gear you have...but many times more important in how you use it.


I would modify it....
It's all about how you are climbing and hopefully you don't need the gear....
But if you need it, you should have it :-)
Pitty
From Marbach
Joined Apr 27, 2011
68 points
Apr 17, 2013
Dow Williams, 2011
"Having" it is no replacement for knowing how to use it, no matter how bold a gym climber one might be. Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
186 points


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