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 ADVANCED
Elephant Rock - North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beware of Nesting Egos T 
Just Say Go T,S 
Prepare for Soaring Seagulls T,S 
Strawberry Jam T 
Where Egos Sore T,S 

Prepare for Soaring Seagulls 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Stan Caldwell, Dan Sperlock
Page Views: 1,477
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 16, 2004

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Trying to figure out the final sequence...

Description 

This route is located on the North side of Elephant rock. It ascends the left line of bolts on the large flake. There are three bolts on the lower wall and 2 bolts at the beginning of the upper section. The lower wall has a 5.10 b/c crux at the 2 bolt. The 5.10d crux is a crimpy affair at the second bolt on the upper headwall. Good nut placements and cams in horizontals protect the final section (5.10b). There is a technical crux right before you pull onto the belay ledge.

Fun stuff...

Protection 

Draws, nuts, and a few medium sized cams


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 30, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

An OK route. You end up with some rope drag which is... a drag, but still fun. I ended up moving left at the final horizontal, as did another leader I watched. I suppose it could go straight up at the end, but the best protection is towards the left side of the horizontal (#1 Camalot), so it just seemed more natural to move left at the end. No doubt it would be harder going straight. The midway crux felt fair at 10d, and the bottom section definitely involved some surprisingly challenging slab climbing. It is probably a good idea to be comfortable at the grade, as a fall at the wrong moment might drop you on the big ledge...

Gear: Medium nut, Aliens, #1 Camalot.
By Frosty Weller
From: Colorado
Jul 2, 2008

Not sure why this doesn't deserve 3 stars. I thought it was quality rock, cool features, appropriate bolt placements, and had good movement.
By Ben Folsom
Jul 10, 2008

I agree with the previous comment. Nice route, good rock and well protected. Nice colors on the rock too.
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jun 20, 2010

the straight up top out is awesome yet probably harder than 10d.
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 17, 2011

An excellent route. Going right at the second horizontal crack and dynoing to the top for the final move makes this climb way better. place a couple pieces and just jump for it.