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Preparation H 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 757
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 22, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Preparation H runs up the center of the photo in t...

Description 

As you approach the wall from the trail, Prep H is more or less in front of you, just a bit to the left.

The climb moves up through a bit of a slot right above the second bolt then moves into a short right facing dihedral for the last moves. The move through the 'slot' is an awkward mantle type thing, and the dihedral moves can be a bit sandy.

When I was on the route the last bolt was between the anchor's closed shuts.

An OK route with some fun moves, but I've heard several comments that the 'awkward' move is spooky & mentally hard for 5.8. Try it, see how it goes...


Protection 

5? bolts + anchor (2 closed shuts + a bolt?)



Photos of Preparation H Slideshow Add Photo
This route is a little awkward. When all else fails remember to stem.
This route is a little awkward. When all else fail...
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By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Definitely an akward route and a couple of moves are kind of scary on lead. But still a fun route, worth doing at least once.

By Brent Larsen
From: Spearfish, SD
Jun 30, 2009

This route deserves more stars because, in my opinion, it never gets boring. I've never done it the exact same way twice. It forces me to get my lead head on everytime I do it and is definately worth more than one go. However, I'd argue the rating is a bit off, since I have seen so many beginning climbers, fresh from the gym, get spit off this more challenging that it looks climb. I once had a real nice stash of bail beaners I cleaned off Preparation H, that I've since left in Ten Sleep.