Prepackaged 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | John McGowen, Rich Smith & Herb Laegar, February 1977 |
| Submitted By: | Bo Johnston on Nov 12, 2003 |
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Prepackaged Andy Diaz
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Description This excellent route climbs the rightward diagonaling hand crack just to the right of Feltoneon Physics. Bring your guns for this sustained pitch of quality stone and great gear placement. Although the crux may be in the lower portion of the route, the ensuing pump will make the finish a challenge as well. Descend via standard rap anchors abeam White Lightning. Enjoy!
Protection Standard J-Tree trad rack up to 2.5".
Brandon on Prepackaged.
| Start of Prepackaged, demonstrating how the crack ...
| "Prepackaged". Photo by Blitzo.
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By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Bend, OR Feb 13, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| Classic! Technical finger locks and subtle footwork get you through the bottom section with bomber small wires for pro. A short, enjoyable section of hand jams (#0.75-#1 Camalot) finishes the main portion of the climb. Some easy wandering gets you to the top. My favorite on this wall. |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Mar 18, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| I seem to remember the start as being pretty tough. Also, using holds on the face to the left of the crack (Just above where the climber is) simplifies the crux immensely, or is that cheating? |
By Dr. Evil From: Boulder, CO May 11, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| This route is well protected and incredibly fun. |
By Edward Jenner Nov 1, 2006 rating: 5.9
| Good route to do even if not comfortable at 10's - safe and relatively easy. |
By Will S From: Joshua Tree Dec 27, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| Very fun route, protects well, start is a little funky/balancy until you can get into the fingercrack. Climbed this once before and thought the fingerlocks were too small for my digits...but I must have been blind because I found perfectly good ones the last time I was on it. |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Feb 23, 2007 rating: 5.9
| Completely hand/finger size dependent. Ladies fingers makes the route go closer to 5.9. If you've got a large 3.0/3.5" cam you can plug that dog in down low while standing on the block before starting into the finger crack. It's a bomber placement. |
By Kayte Knower Mar 27, 2007 rating: 5.10a
| Why must you downgrade? Can't it just be a fantastic route? I hear so many people bitch about the bad attitude of sport climbers at Rifle, yet here it is in the heart of trad climbing. Leave the grades alone. One of my favorite routes ever. I couldn't decide though...do you crawl through the hole at the top? How cool is J-tree? |
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Mar 30, 2007
| Great climbing with great gear. Fun jams! Nearly brained my belay when I got butterfingered with my orange alien. I unclipped it from my rack, found I was only holding a biner, and looked down to see it just miss his melon. He was checking out the girls though, didn't even notice. I'd say this one is totally fair at .10a, although it is easier than other .10as I've been on in Josh like Tax Man or Exorcist. |
By Ryan Kelly From: work. Sep 3, 2008
| I don't know if I'd put Exorcist in with Taxman and Prepackaged. Exorcist is super cruiser, probably more like 5.9- |
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Sep 3, 2008 rating: 5.8+
| For me (a real man with large fingers) Taxman is far harder than either the Prepackaged (5.8+) or Exocist (5.9) All three are pretty darn good and should be on everyones "must do" list for the grade. |
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator Sep 3, 2008
| Russ, with an emphasis on "real man," or "large fingers?" |
By Ryan Kelly From: work. Sep 6, 2008
| Agreed on Prepackaged and Taxman, but Caughtinside didn't fall off of either of those, so I'm not as concerned with downgrading those two. |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Jun 15, 2009 rating: 5.10a
| Here's my experience of the three previously compared climbs, bearing in mind that climbs are graded for on-sight no beta ascents (all in my case from the mid 80's): 1) Prepackage, fell at the crux, got seduced by the crack and ignored the face holds to the left, did not make that mistake on the second try. 2) Taxman felt easier than Prepackaged, just one tricky move close to the start. 3) Exorcist, easier than both the above with the crux supposedly being a bolt-protected face move above the crack, so hard to compare. PS I've got fairly thin fingers. |
By Aerili From: Salt Lake City, UT Jan 10, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| I have long, narrow fingers and I could not call this 5.9 regardless. Anyway, excellent route! Used a bunch of C3s and couple real small stoppers. Sustained, thought-provoking movement. Shouldn't need anything over a #1 except possibly a #2 for your anchor. |
By Cory From: Boise, ID Oct 24, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| Awesome route! Getting established in the crack at the start was tricky, but then it was just fun finger locks with good features for feet the rest of the way up. There were lots of great stances for placing pro. |
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