Premeditated  A2+

127 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II Consensus:  A2+ [details] FA:  Jim Bridwell, Craig Little 2/1965 Season:  Any Submitted By:  Joe Forrester on Nov 5, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The Route. The route ends under the big roof up an...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>> Emergency Closure for Condor Nesting The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife: * From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999) * From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead) * Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214) * Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation. The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect. Signage has been posted at strategic locations. Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both. Resurrection Wall 2010 Submitted By: Closures and Restrictions on May 10, 2010 This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Premeditated is described as being one of the harder lines at the Monument. It follows a leftward leaning crack, up and left under a large roof system, on the left side of the Balconies formation. P1 can go two ways, either face climb up past a bolt until you get to the crack, or start aiding from the ground, in the crack. Both pitches end at bolted anchors. P1 is the only pitch that has any bolts for protection, two I believe. On P2, a tension traverse is required (to the left), to get into the prominent crack system under the large obvious left-ward slanting roof.

Location 

Far left side of the Balconies. Descent is via rappel. Apparently this route ends after two pitches, but rumor has it another pitch exists.

Protection 

Simple aid rack will suffice. Double set of cams, off-set stoppers, and a couple of beaks were all I used. Anchors have recently been replaced, but as with all bolts at the Monument, use caution.

Photos of Premeditated Slideshow

Add Photo

Bertram at the top of P1

Bertram cleaning P2