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Unsorted Routes:

Premeditated 

A2+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus: A2+ [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell, Craig Little 2/1965
Season: Any
Page Views: 327
Submitted By: Joe Forrester on Nov 5, 2012

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The Route. The route ends under the big roof up an...

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Description 

Premeditated is described as being one of the harder lines at the Monument. It follows a leftward leaning crack, up and left under a large roof system, on the left side of the Balconies formation. P1 can go two ways, either face climb up past a bolt until you get to the crack, or start aiding from the ground, in the crack. Both pitches end at bolted anchors. P1 is the only pitch that has any bolts for protection, two I believe. On P2, a tension traverse is required (to the left), to get into the prominent crack system under the large obvious left-ward slanting roof.

Location 

Far left side of the Balconies. Descent is via rappel. Apparently this route ends after two pitches, but rumor has it another pitch exists.

Protection 

Simple aid rack will suffice. Double set of cams, off-set stoppers, and a couple of beaks were all I used. Anchors have recently been replaced, but as with all bolts at the Monument, use caution.


Photos of Premeditated Slideshow Add Photo
Bertram at the top of P1
Bertram at the top of P1
Bertram cleaning P2
Bertram cleaning P2

Comments on Premeditated Add Comment
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By Joe Forrester
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Nov 5, 2012

This route is modern A2-A2+. I would also not be surprised if someone has done it clean.
By munge
Nov 27, 2012

Nice job Joe!

I'd be hesitant to compare "modern" Yosemite ratings to Pinnacles rock quality aid ratings, since Pinnacles doesn't have a modern aid rating system. You are probably right, but no where does the axiom hold more true "It's all A1 till you fall" than at Pinnacles.
By Joe Forrester
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Dec 20, 2012

Its not modern "Yosemite" aid ratings. It is standard Fisher's aid ratings. Probably closer to A2 by mud standards.
By kevin deweese
From: Oakland, Ca
Nov 9, 2013

Has only seen a handful of ascents. It should be very clear that A2+ would be MUD rating, if you're only used to aiding on A2 granite, you'll be in for a pant-filling time up there.

Pitch 1 has gone clean. Pitch 2 goes clean to the roof then you'll need arrows and angles to make the traverse through very DFU terrain. The traverse can probably be freeclimbed at 5.9-5.10ish R/X but I wasn't willing to try it. Expect 2 or 3 hours a pitch. Helmets for your belayer is a must as you're aiders alone will drag off a constant rain of rocks and dirt.
By kevin deweese
From: Oakland, Ca
Nov 9, 2013

Has only seen a handful of ascents. It should be very clear that A2+ would be MUD rating, if you're only used to aiding on A2 granite, you'll be in for a pant-filling time up there.

Pitch 1 has gone clean. Pitch 2 goes clean to the roof then you'll need arrows and angles to make the traverse through very DFU terrain. The traverse can probably be freeclimbed at 5.9-5.10ish R/X but I wasn't willing to try it. Expect 2 or 3 hours a pitch. Helmets for your belayer is a must as you're aiders alone will drag off a constant rain of rocks and dirt.