premature ecrackulation
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 7 votes
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | mikel cronin |
Page Views: | 768 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | slim on Jun 16, 2015 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
just to the right of the warm up wall lies the streaked wall. this beautiful white wall lies directly above the aqueduct pipe and has 3 routes. the rightmost route, climbing up through a crack/seam feature is premature ecrackulation.
begin up the mellow crack for 2 or 3 bolts as the climbing gradually gets more difficult. the crack gets pesky and the face features get pretty small as you battle up to the base of the bulge. a leftward traverse on good holds merges this route into the route to the left. from here, big sharp pockets and some hefty cranking get you through the bulge to the anchors.
you can also go more straight up through the bulge, clipping the bolts out left. the holds are less sharp this way, but the rope angles awkardly under your feet and could be a tripping/flipping hazard.
very good route on nice rock.
begin up the mellow crack for 2 or 3 bolts as the climbing gradually gets more difficult. the crack gets pesky and the face features get pretty small as you battle up to the base of the bulge. a leftward traverse on good holds merges this route into the route to the left. from here, big sharp pockets and some hefty cranking get you through the bulge to the anchors.
you can also go more straight up through the bulge, clipping the bolts out left. the holds are less sharp this way, but the rope angles awkardly under your feet and could be a tripping/flipping hazard.
very good route on nice rock.
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