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Prelude T 

Prelude 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 500
Submitted By: Salamanizer on May 24, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Stan on lead left of the hand/finger crack.

Description 

Huge buckets and holes start this route up a well protected face. Eventually the buckets stop and a short length of low angle friction lead to a splitter 20ft hand crack.

Protection 

Quickdraws and a few cams from 1" - 2" protect the hand crack. Save a 2" cam to back up the one lone anchor bolt.


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By Floyd Hayes
Oct 6, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The first bolt is 20' up and out of character with the rest of the climb (much better protected), which will scare some beginning climbers off what is essentially a beginners route. The upper part of the climb is awesome! The climb is about 90' high with a walkoff.
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Oct 7, 2013

The first 20ft is much easier than the rest of the climb. I don't know why the bolts were placed where they were, but that probably had something to do with it. This route was done a long time ago. I replaced the bolts on it several years ago as they were old crusty Leepers. It's not a sport route.
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Nov 4, 2013

Yea, the first bolt is high and getting to it is no easier than the rest of the climb. Then there's a bunch of bolts before you get to the crux which, oddly, comes halfway between a 15-20 foot runout. It doesn't make sense. But then, a lot of routes in pine canyon are like that. Maybe the routes change over time...
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Nov 5, 2013

The route was hand drilled on lead probably some time in the early 80's. Originally that route only had two bolts. The first two bolts and last two bolts were added later.

It was never meant to be a (safe) sport route. Just something to do on a lazy day. If you feel like the route would be better served by adding a bolt lower down, have at it.

Just use some discretion and the right hardware.