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Prelude to Gravity 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 430'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 538
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on May 7, 2013

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Description 

P1 5.10b G: Climb up to the bulge, over this (crux), then follow a spectacular thin crack up and right to its end, then up to a tree with a fixed sling anchor. 100'

Note: This is makes a good 1-pitch route, as does the first pitch of Arch Madness.

P2 5.4 G: Traverse down and left to an open book, then up to a fixed anchor on the right wall, directly below an overhanging crack in a black wall. 60'

P3 5.11b G: Known as "The Black Crack", climb the obvious overhanging crack in the black wall (crux). At its top, move right and up a corner, then back left to a tree in a right-facing corner. Climb the offwidth crack (5.8) to a spectacular belay on top of the Ax of Karma flake, an amazing place to be.

The Black Crack is often wet, but you can see if from the ground. Because of this condition, it is sometimes dirty, not with lichen, but with debris washed down from above; this can easily be cleaned.

P4 5.11b G: Known as "Rolling the Dice", this pitch climbs the face above the super exposed Ax of Karma flake. Move left to the top of the flake, then onto the face. Move left, then angle right to a roof. Over this (crux), then up a face. Make a huge traverse left, then climb a harder-than-it-looks headwall to a fixed anchor. Double ropes reduce the drag on this pitch.

Descent: Double-rope rappel to the Ax of Karma belay, then another double-rope rappel to the ground.


Location 

Locate Arch Madness -- the long, low, right-arching overlap on the South Face. Begin just to the left below a bulge with a bolt.


Protection 

Standard rack up to 2.5", plus many draws (13+) and two red Aliens (or similar).



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