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Orange Crush
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Predator 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Ward Smith, 1998
Page Views: 19,925
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Predator during a spring rain shower.

This would ...

Description 

You have seen images of this unmistakeable overhanging prow in magazines, on guidebook covers, and in climbing videos. You have wondered where this amazing piece of rock could possibly exist.

The climb is called The Predator and it exists at Orange Crush.

Long and steadily overhanging, but with few stopper moves, Predator is a popular first 13b. However, getting to the base is involved. Climb the first pitch of Tropicana (11a) and belay at two eye bolts on a perfect flat ledge. It is also possible to access this ledge from the left, starting up The Crusher and traversing straight around the corner to the ledge. If one pulls on bolts, it's possible to do this in approach shoes (5.6 A0).

After getting a vote of confidence from you belayer, it's time to head upward. The start holds a few 5.10ish moves and the climbing quickly turns to 5.8 jug hauling. A sit-down rest provides an opprtunity to regroup and consider the hanging prow. Though actually about 45 degrees overhanging, the perspective from the rest suggests that the prow is much steeper. A hard pull gains the prow after which crimps and deadpoints continue until the final crux sequence.

This crux involves a big deadpoint, or for style points, a most-points off dyno to a jug. Energy sapping moves on the arete proper lead to the lip. The topout, though mentally and physically taxing, is recommended by some and required by others. The choice is yours, but you are the one who has to look yourself in the mirror in the morning.




Protection 

Bolts. Draws are fixed. On redpoint attempts, a climber usually clips every other draw on the prow. The fall is the definition of clean.

A 60 meter rope is necessary for lowering from the top to the ground. If you would like to lower back to the ledge, have your belayer lower you to the fork of the spindly tree (staying on-belay, of course). Then have your belayer throw you a loop of rope to haul you in.


Photos of Predator Slideshow Add Photo
Sam Todzia just sticking to the desperate upper pump crux.
Sam Todzia just sticking to the desperate upper pu...
YES! i love this...
YES! i love this...
lily dynoing above the trees
lily dynoing above the trees
Ladd flashing the dyno
Ladd flashing the dyno
lily going for it  <br />photo by mathieu fontaine
lily going for it
photo by mathieu fontaine
Ladd setting up for the final moves
Ladd setting up for the final moves
Dave Sharratt on Predator.
Dave Sharratt on Predator.
looking down on Predator :) Lily
looking down on Predator :) Lily
Ladd maxing out on the upper pump crux
Ladd maxing out on the upper pump crux
lily on predator photo by mathieu fontaine
lily on predator photo by mathieu fontaine
lily up on the prow of predator <br />photo by mathieu fontaine
lily up on the prow of predator
photo by mathieu f...
Mathieu fontaine getting up there
Mathieu fontaine getting up there
Ladd trying to get something back after the dyno.
Ladd trying to get something back after the dyno.
Walker on Predator.
Walker on Predator.
i LOVE this perspective.. lily, going for it!
i LOVE this perspective.. lily, going for it!
mathieu fontaine falling in the fall
mathieu fontaine falling in the fall
lily on the upper moves... from a new angle
lily on the upper moves... from a new angle
mathieu fontaine cutting free
mathieu fontaine cutting free
if you havent yet, you want to get here...
if you havent yet, you want to get here...
Catherine LaFlamme heading up the juggy lower portion, before the real steepness occures
Catherine LaFlamme heading up the juggy lower port...
bustin justin...
bustin justin...
Local starting the roof
Local starting the roof
mathieu fontaine i just liked the black and white version too.. hope you do
mathieu fontaine i just liked the black and white ...
Aron maxing out on the predator ledge.  <br />
Aron maxing out on the predator ledge.

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Comments on Predator Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 30, 2014
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 28, 2007

My dream route that I hope to conquer (I think that's how you spell it) this summer! Wish me luck!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 29, 2007
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Good luck, Mike.... I have faith....
By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
Nov 6, 2009

"The choice is yours, but you are the one who has to look at yourself in the mirror in the morning."

Love it.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c



i found this video on the youtube... a bit shaky but shows the moves well...
By Rajiv Ayyangar
From: Portland, ME
Oct 21, 2011

I thought I saw black climbtech draws on the prow a couple months ago, but when I went last weekend the old tatt was back. Some of those biners were deeply grooved, and this route gets a lot of hangdogging - were the permadraws removed? if so, why?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 12, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I once thought that it could never live up to it's reputation... it sounded like too much hype... i waited for a long time before trying it, maybe not wanting to be let down if it didnt live up to all that considerable hype... well, i climbing on it over the last 3 weeks, and sent it today... lets just say ive climbed A LOT of routes and this is hands down my favorite! i give it 5 stars out of four! if you make a list of reasons you'd like to climb 5.13 the top of the list should look like this...

1.PREDATOR!!!!!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 13, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

this shows a few goes on this amazing route leading to my send and a nice little back flip for celebration :)
By twellman
Nov 13, 2012

Ha Lee clearly it was the clothes holding you back. If you take your pants off, you'll probly send China Beach next weekend.... if you can find someone to belay you.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 13, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

everyone knows you climb harder without a shirt haha... and ill try to find a slow day and dedicated belayer to test your theory haha...
By Keyan P
From: Burlington, VT
Oct 25, 2013

I was trying this a couple weeks ago and found many of the draws on the prow to be in very bad condition. I saw Rajiv wrote a couple years ago that there were steel permas on this, any reason they were taken off?
By Tom Armstrong
May 30, 2014

Jay Conway, making it look easy
youtu.be/cWZpP2ncYNQ