You have seen images of this unmistakeable overhanging prow in magazines, on guidebook covers, and in climbing videos. You have wondered where this amazing piece of rock could possibly exist.
The climb is called The Predator and it exists at Orange Crush.
Long and steadily overhanging, but with few stopper moves, Predator is a popular first 13b. However, getting to the base is involved. Climb the first pitch of Tropicana (11a) and belay at two eye bolts on a perfect flat ledge. It is also possible to access this ledge from the left, starting up The Crusher and traversing straight around the corner to the ledge. If one pulls on bolts, it's possible to do this in approach shoes (5.6 A0).
After getting a vote of confidence from you belayer, it's time to head upward. The start holds a few 5.10ish moves and the climbing quickly turns to 5.8 jug hauling. A sit-down rest provides an opprtunity to regroup and consider the hanging prow. Though actually about 45 degrees overhanging, the perspective from the rest suggests that the prow is much steeper. A hard pull gains the prow after which crimps and deadpoints continue until the final crux sequence.
This crux involves a big deadpoint, or for style points, a most-points off dyno to a jug. Energy sapping moves on the arete proper lead to the lip. The topout, though mentally and physically taxing, is recommended by some and required by others. The choice is yours, but you are the one who has to look yourself in the mirror in the morning.
Bolts. Draws are fixed. On redpoint attempts, a climber usually clips every other draw on the prow. The fall is the definition of clean.
A 60 meter rope is necessary for lowering from the top to the ground. If you would like to lower back to the ledge, have your belayer lower you to the fork of the spindly tree (staying on-belay, of course). Then have your belayer throw you a loop of rope to haul you in.
I thought I saw black climbtech draws on the prow a couple months ago, but when I went last weekend the old tatt was back. Some of those biners were deeply grooved, and this route gets a lot of hangdogging - were the permadraws removed? if so, why?
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Nov 12, 2012 rating: 5.13b8a29IX+30E7 6c
I once thought that it could never live up to it's reputation... it sounded like too much hype... i waited for a long time before trying it, maybe not wanting to be let down if it didnt live up to all that considerable hype... well, i climbing on it over the last 3 weeks, and sent it today... lets just say ive climbed A LOT of routes and this is hands down my favorite! i give it 5 stars out of four! if you make a list of reasons you'd like to climb 5.13 the top of the list should look like this...
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Nov 13, 2012 rating: 5.13b8a29IX+30E7 6c
this shows a few goes on this amazing route leading to my send and a nice little back flip for celebration :)
I was trying this a couple weeks ago and found many of the draws on the prow to be in very bad condition. I saw Rajiv wrote a couple years ago that there were steel permas on this, any reason they were taken off?