|Coal Pit Buttress
This is another classic put up by the Stiffler's Mom duo....Tyler and Luke. Again, they put a lot of time into route preparation and cleaning and drilling quality anchors, and done on the lead! Kudos!
Approach: As for Pentapitch and then go left to Coalpit Buttress. Same start as Sumatra. In fact, these first pitches of Sumatra are actually the same as Precious Lost! This is about 100 feet to the left or east of Endless Torment. I guarantee you will enjoy this route...I personally have to try something else this summer!
Pitch #1: Up the left facing corner for 10 feet, out onto the slab and then belay at 2 bolts on a ledge. Well protected. 5.10b(?), 20m.
Pitch #2: Continue up and right passing some jungle gymnastics to a tree anchor. 5.7, 25m.
Pitch #3: Move left and step up onto a ramp and climb the ever widening crack. For this pitch if you struggle on fist and wider slab cracks, take additional bigger cams if desired. Belay at a big ledge from blocks. 5.7-8?, 40m.
Pitch#4: Traverse down the ledge and to the left (east) to yet another left trending ramp. Pass a piton to a very fun finger crack that you wish would go on forever, pass some bolts to a cramped belay ledge by a shady tree. 5.9, 35m.
Pitch #5: From here, you will see the last moves of Sumatra out left. Traverse out a leftward crack towards that last bolt on Sumatra without clipping it, and then go up and right after clipping a fixed angle piton. Pass through a blocky roof to more moves to the left protecting with gear mostly to another roof. this I thought to be the technical trad crux, especially if you don't carry enough Jr. Camalot size cams! Surmount the roof laybacking your way up and right to easier ground and a huge tree with slings for the belay. 5.10c(?), 30m.
Pitch #6: Over the roof at the start to a wonderful and clean slab passing several bolts. Trend left (as always!) to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 30m.
Pitch #7: Kind of perplexing! Pass a bolt, then go the line of least resistance through a roof on the left. We went to the right and it was unprotected and wild!!!! Once above the roof, go right to two bolt hanging belay where the only good rock for a stance existed (apparently). 5.8, choss, wavering 20m.
Descent: Rappel straight down and eventually join the Stiffler's raps. I vote and agree with Tyler that a nice rap line should be installed in the future to enable really straight forward descent here.
QDs and good assortment of cams and nuts to #4 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the 3rd pitch of the Precious Lost. Goo...
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 7, 2006
The crux pitch is a bitch for us short,round guys,(Lurpus Maximus aka Tyler Philips has it made). (I still think it ranks as a 10+ crux, but I'm 5'6") This is definitely a great route worth checking out. Fun moves, butt puckering cruxes, and that great feeling of being very high off the canyon floor. A lot of work has been put into this route and we get to reap the benefits. If you haven't done this route yet, it is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon. Thnx to T.P. (for my bung hole) and Luked
|By john bald|
Jun 12, 2006
Enjoyed this climb earlier this spring. Suggest to those unfamiliar with sub-grades to rate as 10-, 10, or 10+. Thought 1st pitch to be 10- and crux to be 10. Did not see any 5.10c terrain on the route.
Jul 15, 2007
Fun Route, with a variety of climbing and protection through-out. A couple of #3's for the third pitch, full value style. Thanks Tyler!
|By Dave Budge|
Aug 10, 2007
Precious Choss has some good climbing, especially the ever-widening third pitch (it's worth climbing the route just for those handstacks). Kudos to Tyler and Luke. However, I have these words of caution:
1. If a party is aleady on the route, strongly consider going elsewhere, as rockfall is a very real and serious issue.
2. Do NOT linger near the bases of any of the routes on Coalpit Buttress (due to rockfall issues).
3. Be very careful on the route as much of the route is surrounded by areas of stacked, loose, rock.
4. Although the actual difficulty is mellow, this is an adventurous route, for those who can routefind through potentially dangerous, loose terrain. It good to know before you go that this isn't like doing Pentapitch or the Thumb.
5. The rap down Sumatra from the top of pitch 5 was too far for my 70m rope, I came up about 2 meters short and had to lower off the bolt above. Others must have done the same because there was a biner and rap ring on the bolt.
|By Shaun Greene|
Aug 10, 2007
I was around when dave budge was climbing this route. My partner and I were on stifflers mom when we heard what sounded like an avalanche.I have never seen such an enormous amount of rock fall. Definately dont linger at the base.
Sep 3, 2007
So, that rap needs a little TLC. We did one short rap to that first station and then a long one down and left to the top of the 5th pitch of Stifflers. Potentially, you could rap the first two pitches of Precious lost and down the great ledge between DoggyStyle and Stifflers. There is a tree right between the top belay and the top of Stiffler's 5th but we had no extra webbing...
We ran 1&2 4&5 and then 6&7 together. But you gotta know there will be serious rope drag right at the very end of #5 no matter which way you tackle that little roof.
Also, I liked the flake moves on that last pitch but the rope drag going back right from the bolts was burly. Its a total conundrum because the climbing is good over left with the bolts but the anchors needed to be where they are due to rock quality.
Finally, I think Tyler is right - there is nothing harder than .10a - so don't be intimidated by the grade. Nothing is sustained either - its an adventure route and a fun one at that.
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 8, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Fun adventurous route, definitely has a south side flavor to it. I thought p1 and p6 were the best, really cool climbing up steep but featured slabs. The wide crack on p3 would be really good if you weren't walking in the dirt most of the way, especially the final runout where you're left hoping you don't start a dirt avalanche that will funnel down the crack.
The 2 roofs on p5 are quality and protect really well. On the 2nd one don't bother liebacking, just traverse in the crack on bomber finger locks to the jug.
p7 has sweet exposure and wild moves up some flakes, but going back to the belay is a bitch. The 5.7R direct variation looked very good from the top, looks like maybe a bolt on the last face would make it safe and better to avoid bombarding people on Stiffler's.
As Dave Budge mentioned, the 1st rap down sumatra (from the top of p5) is way long. The rap ring is gone from the bolt, I managed to snag one of the slings on the anchor and clip in it then downclimb, but if you have anything short of a true 70 you won't make it.
I had never bushwhacked while on rap but it's what you'll have to do to get to the top of p1. Aim right through the thinnest part of the thicket and pray when you pull your rope.
|By Luke Douglas|
Sep 21, 2008
The mighty dirt avalanche has apparently (as of 9/20/08) let loose its muddy load. A friend called down Hell's Satan's upon my head as he lead up the 3rd pitch. His follower said he was glad he wasn't leading since, due to the dirt, it was the hardest pitch on the climb. I don't think that the follower helped the situation as he was laughing hysterically the entire time. Adam you da man. Nice lead. You wanted some adventure, right?!!!
Just a thought, but I put a sling in a high branch of the big pine that resides on the ledge before the final WIDE section. Then avoid the dirt by climbing .8R slab.
Jul 27, 2009
Does anyone know if you can get off this route before P5 or if you are committed til you get to the first rap anchors from Sumatra?
Thanks in advance.
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
bring about 20-30ft of webbing/cord with you if you do this route. half the anchors are just bolts with webbing equalized, and a bunch are fading rapidly. loose rock with a few fun crux sections, and route finding cruxy spots. the adventure is what makes this route worth doing.
|By your mom|
From: Reno, NV
Aug 23, 2011
like Greg said, did this route a couple weeks ago and I cleaned all my jingous rap stations from last fall on the way up (I'll get to that story in a sec)
and if you plan to use the top of sumatra for a belay station at the top of pitch 3 (when linking pitch one and the jungle pitch together) or rap from here, you'll want to bring some webbing, cuz its a shit show. I regretted not bring my phone or camera to take a picture of what the hell people have been rapping off of.
there was 2 bolts with:
1 correctly tied piece of 8 mil (prolly 3 yrs old)
1 single sling of 6 mil, tied to one bolt, with a double overhand
NOT 1 BUT 2! American death triangles! 1 was obviously tied last year, and some evolution cheating Einstein decided to back it up with another this year.
I didn't cut anything down off that because I am a firm believer in the learning years, and if your going to get up a few hundred feet and pull that shit, well...that's why they are called the learning years. spend 4 dollars and leave a sling or nothing.
I opted to climb 30ish feet left and finish on the 2nd to last good pitch of stiffler's, bomber rap station up there and can be rapped with one rope to bottom to stiffler's
so, my rap stations I cut down 2 weeks ago...
Last fall, i was at the top of the second good pitch of precious lost. it started to snow and rain and i was like screw this. So, I rapped of the big tree and left my cord. I made another rap at a tree, and another on a rock. I intended to return in a few days and clean my mess. but, as fate would have it, winter came hard. I rapped through the dirty gully (climbers right of the first pitch) directly through a bees nest. I was subsequently stung 27 times while on rap with my partner staring in horror. *insta karma?* I managed to make it over to the last rap (top of the first pitch) while still swearing violently being stung like a pinata. must of been fun to watch though. I then fliped the rope over so it was underneath me, witch knocked a flake loose and cut 15 meters off the brand new rope. excellent day of climbing.
by the way, a blue ball nut is useful on the "finger crack" pitch. didnt have one, it was sitting on the porch.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 15, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Climbed P3 today after rapping down from Japanese Terraces. P3 was dirty but fun considering I only had up to 3" gear. Bring a BD#4 for this. As a side note, there is recent rockfall visible below P2 that looks less than a week old with boulders visible all the way down in the talus field approach to pentapitch. It even took out a tree with an 18" trunk. Look out for rockfall as things don't look the most stable up there right now.
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
I went up this the other day and just wanted to make a few notes.
P2: It can be easy to go the wrong way on this route if you are looking at the topo and description. Head up the ramp and just continue in a straight line up the ramp leaning right the whole way. After a few moves through the bushes near the top it will put you at the fixed anchor.
P6: There is no piton here anymore. Just start straight up from the belay tree into the finger crack.
Rappelling from the chains at the top of P6 I headed climbers left to about 30ft left of the belay tree at the start of P6. I then rapped from a tree there to stiffler's mom (base of the 10+ pitch) and finished from those anchors. This is a rope stretcher even for a 70m line so be careful.
Overall I think the route is a bit soft for the grade compared to other climbs in the canyon. It has 10 moves on it but it is not very sustained.