Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m), Grade III |
FA: | Greg Sievers & Brian Verhulst |
Page Views: | 1,118 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Greg Sievers on May 15, 2013 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.?
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
ONLY THE FIRST PITCH IS NEW, but it makes a nice link-up and a plumb line up the wall.
P1 - 35m - start just left of Sea Biscuit and 15' left of the largest LFD. Start in an awkward bulge (crux) and head straight up toward a 12" wide x 8' tall, rectangular, parallel-sided inset. Just under it, move right along an easy undercling. Aim toward and into the large corner under the large roof (shrubs and loose rock were mostly cleaned out). A thin, sharp plate/edge is laminated to the right wall here. Turn the roof directly up the crack/corner at 5.7+ and proceed up the pleasant easier hand crack to the flat ledge and set a belay.
P2 - 35m - traverse straight left. A fine couple moves with big exposure, 5.7+ (like the 4th pitch of Kor's Flake on Sundance)! Teach out left and gain the delightful 3-star crack of upper Sea Biscuit. Take it to a 2 bolt anchor (visible from the ground).
P3 - 20m - climb Funky Gold Patina a 4 bolt sport pitch (.10b we thought).
P4 - 40m - walk a few meters to the left and continue up Funky Gold Patina in a thin crack above and deep inset, on the west-facing wall. Stem up and finger jam the thin, tenuous crack and seam to the summit, 5.10. Pop around the left/north side of the summit block, and find the existing summit rap anchors. 2 each x 30m fixed raps drops you at your pack and lunch.
This is a nice direct link-up straight up the wall. Thanks to all the other folks that pioneered all the hard climbing.
P1 - 35m - start just left of Sea Biscuit and 15' left of the largest LFD. Start in an awkward bulge (crux) and head straight up toward a 12" wide x 8' tall, rectangular, parallel-sided inset. Just under it, move right along an easy undercling. Aim toward and into the large corner under the large roof (shrubs and loose rock were mostly cleaned out). A thin, sharp plate/edge is laminated to the right wall here. Turn the roof directly up the crack/corner at 5.7+ and proceed up the pleasant easier hand crack to the flat ledge and set a belay.
P2 - 35m - traverse straight left. A fine couple moves with big exposure, 5.7+ (like the 4th pitch of Kor's Flake on Sundance)! Teach out left and gain the delightful 3-star crack of upper Sea Biscuit. Take it to a 2 bolt anchor (visible from the ground).
P3 - 20m - climb Funky Gold Patina a 4 bolt sport pitch (.10b we thought).
P4 - 40m - walk a few meters to the left and continue up Funky Gold Patina in a thin crack above and deep inset, on the west-facing wall. Stem up and finger jam the thin, tenuous crack and seam to the summit, 5.10. Pop around the left/north side of the summit block, and find the existing summit rap anchors. 2 each x 30m fixed raps drops you at your pack and lunch.
This is a nice direct link-up straight up the wall. Thanks to all the other folks that pioneered all the hard climbing.
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