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Preakness 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Greg Sievers & Brian Verhulst
New Route: Yes
Season: fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 211
Submitted By: Greg Sievers on May 15, 2013

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Stole this pic from KMAN, but Preakness is under t...

Description 

ONLY THE FIRST PITCH IS NEW, but it makes a nice link-up and a plumb line up the wall.

P1 - 35m - start just left of Sea Biscuit and 15' left of the largest LFD. Start in an awkward bulge (crux) and head straight up toward a 12" wide x 8' tall, rectangular, parallel-sided inset. Just under it, move right along an easy undercling. Aim toward and into the large corner under the large roof (shrubs and loose rock were mostly cleaned out). A thin, sharp plate/edge is laminated to the right wall here. Turn the roof directly up the crack/corner at 5.7+ and proceed up the pleasant easier hand crack to the flat ledge and set a belay.

P2 - 35m - traverse straight left. A fine couple moves with big exposure, 5.7+ (like the 4th pitch of Kor's Flake on Sundance)! Teach out left and gain the delightful 3-star crack of upper Sea Biscuit. Take it to a 2 bolt anchor (visible from the ground).

P3 - 20m - climb Funky Gold Patina a 4 bolt sport pitch (.10b we thought).

P4 - 40m - walk a few meters to the left and continue up Funky Gold Patina in a thin crack above and deep inset, on the west-facing wall. Stem up and finger jam the thin, tenuous crack and seam to the summit, 5.10. Pop around the left/north side of the summit block, and find the existing summit rap anchors. 2 each x 30m fixed raps drops you at your pack and lunch.

This is a nice direct link-up straight up the wall. Thanks to all the other folks that pioneered all the hard climbing.

Location 

30' left of [106697453]], start 15' left of the huge, left-facing dihedral. There is an existing 2-bolt rap anchor at 30m.

Protection 

A full rack of cams up to #4 BD. This can be climbed without nuts.


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