Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Pre-climb ritual, way, methodology
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Administrator
Mar 7, 2013
Day Lily.
I'm at a point in my climbing experience where technique and strength training (traditional training period.) Is key but not enough. I'm FASCINATED by the fact that I can lead, say, single pitch 5.10 traditionally but get (can get, not always but enough) thrown off balance on multi-pitch and comfortably lead 5.7/5.8 in the multi-pitch environment (if taken move by move, pitch by pitch, I would think id be on the same level of capacity to handle as on single pitch routes) . I love this about climbing and want to lead 5.10/11 multi-pitch just as effortlessly as single pitch (effortlessly = psychologically which greatly effects my performance and by having perfect technique as to not spend that much physical energy.)

Goal: multi-pitch, sport, trad all the same level applying effort to make my climbing effortless. Light.

Course of action: establish a pre-climb ritual (I have a balanced, effective physical/technique/strength training program already)

My question to you: do you have one? If so what do you do? Why do what you do? Where'd you get this ritual?

I need, want, won't accecpt anything less than purposeful and authentic for myself and this new ritual. I think that by having this ritual/way I will slow myself down (without smoking weed), center myself and retain my energy which can then be applied as needed in the moment.

Think purposeful, prayerful. That's what I need my ritual to encompass.

I appreciate your time and I look forward to hearing what, if at all, you do. Enjoy!
The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Mar 7, 2013
You're stoned right now, aren't you? :P Dustin Drake
Joined Feb 12, 2012
5 points
Administrator
Mar 7, 2013
Day Lily.
Unfortunately not. Waiting for my wife, not exciting but at least its nice out. Thanks for posting though... The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Mar 7, 2013
Yeah... Im guessing your pre-post ritual is to get really stoned? What are you talking about.... EricSchmidt
Joined Feb 3, 2013
5 points
Administrator
Mar 7, 2013
Day Lily.
I thought it was straight forward but apparently you all hone in on the weed.

Do you do anything before a climb? Example from Eric Horst (in a nutshell since I don't have it memorized): he takes 5-10 deep breathes, puts his right hand on the rock, concentrates on the thermal energy between him and the rock, may does something again then he's ready to climb.

Taking breathes, sitting still, jumping jacks, fuckin' something, anything before a climb. I can't imagine Eric Horst is the only climber or the first to have something he does before every climb.
The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Mar 7, 2013
I usually take a couple breaths and spot as many moves as I can see (if holds are chalked/I've tried the route before). Chalk up, shake my hands some, grab starting holds, place left foot then pull on. Often times I'll start humming a song/singing in my head, think it helps to alleviate some of the stress I get built up when I'm focusing too hard on stupid things before a climb. frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Administrator
Mar 7, 2013
Day Lily.
Thank you FrankStone. I appreciate knowing what you, others, do. The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Mar 7, 2013
The Stoned Master wrote:
Thank you FrankStone. I appreciate knowing what you, others, do.


I think the most important part of the whole thing for me is reduction of stress. Well before I step up to climb I check to make sure I've got the gear I need, my knot is good, etc. By the time i'm looking up at the pitch I've convinced myself that all the safety critical shit is taken care of. Then I just start thinking about something silly (i.e. a song) so I can relax and transition into the ideal state for climbing. Sometimes I'll jump on too early and find myself too aware low on the route and downclimb and try again. It's all about relaxing, and understanding whats about to happen (all possibilities) so you have fully committed when you pull on, then you just execute.
frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Mar 7, 2013
Adrift on the oceans.
Left shoe on first. No weed. SeaJellie
From Ann Arbor, MI
Joined Jun 5, 2008
9 points
Mar 7, 2013
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...
Left shoe on first. Tie my knot. Retie my knot. Spank my own ass and say, "Get 'em Tiger." Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,619 points
Mar 7, 2013
I think it depends on the climb, be it indoors, or outdoors, or sport or trad.

I think the best thing is, when I'm climbing something hard, like at my absolute limit, is to almost zone out, like pretty much turn everything off.

I know I do this by looking up at my climb (at least as far as I can see) and try to work out as much Beta as possible and get it down in my head, from hand positions to hips and feet. Then depending if its trad or sport try to add in my clip or pro spots by doing by Beta from bottom to top and working out the moves a second time. (If i've rehearsed the climb before and know the moves out of site I'll try to picture it and my body movements in my head) then I check my knot and partner. After that I take a bunch of deep breaths while I shake out my arms and chalk. I do my best to literally turn off anything outside the climbing & then tell my partner climbing & set off.

It really depends on onsite or redpoint, and as far as multipitch especially onsite youre routefinding and multipitch efficiency can definitely hinder performance. Another thing is to make sure you have the utmost confidence in your gear placement for trad & your belayer. Youre not going to climb at your limit if you don't feel safe, but not as far as to turn it off entirely such as if you know there's a spot where falling would make you hit a ledge; obviously that's situational but important nonetheless.
Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Joined Oct 23, 2012
3 points
Mar 7, 2013
Live to Work not Work to Live.  We Love Our Jobs!!...
Im not a consistent 5.10 climber but have done a few successfully. I pretty much do what frank does so the prelim safety stuff is not in my head and then my last deep breath i say out loud bottom to the top no falls no takes, then left foot on in most cases. Christopher Gibson
From Frisco, Texas
Joined Feb 13, 2012
140 points
Mar 7, 2013
#1 put on my shoes - yes left one first
#2 tie in
#3 grab the gear

I frequently forget #3 which results in at minimal an "oppsie" and sometimes it ends in tears.

Occassionally I forget #2 with similar results.

I haven't intentionally forgotten #1 yet.

Sometimes I randomize the order,

If you do more you are overthinking and buying in to some useless mumbo jumbo
Eric Engberg
Joined Apr 28, 2009
2 points
Mar 7, 2013
The Stoned Master wrote:
fuckin' something, anything before a climb.


I imagine that would be relaxing, I might have to start a new pre-climb ritual of my own.
Em Cos
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 21, 2010
6 points
Mar 7, 2013
Thats Me
I usually smoke a bowl (of weed) and
take some codene
clay meier
Joined Dec 24, 2008
359 points
Mar 7, 2013
Eric Engberg wrote:
If you do more you are overthinking and buying in to some useless mumbo jumbo


This
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Mar 7, 2013
I think that if you ramp up gradually and get the mileage under your belt that you don't really need to psyche yourself up. The more climbs you do at that grade it's not a matter of can you do it but rather will you style the onsight. Lou Hibbard
From Eagan, MN
Joined Mar 12, 2006
242 points
I don't lead harder than 5.8 multi pitch. But when I get scared I sing to myself. Pre climb I trash talk myself, the rock, everything except my belayer. I talk a lot about how sketched I am about doing this. Then I charge off. On my way up I will holler back down "that peice won't hold!" About crappy placements. All this half hearted trash talk seems to get me past real fear.
Mar 7, 2013
Valor Over Discretion (5.8), RRG
J Hazard wrote:
I don't lead harder than 5.8 multi pitch. But when I get scared I sing to myself. Pre climb I trash talk myself, the rock, everything except my belayer. I talk a lot about how sketched I am about doing this. Then I charge off. On my way up I will holler back down "that peice won't hold!" About crappy placements. All this half hearted trash talk seems to get me past real fear.

I tend to be the same way. I do some honest visualization, try to spot gear, a few deep breaths while chalking up, and once I'm off the ground I start joking. Serious, honest effort, but making light of the situation helps me dial back the fear a little. Unless I'm in really dicey territory, then it's sphincter factor 10 and I go back to silent visualization and deep breathing. Sometimes I scream like Sharma. saaiiiii!!!
Brian Hudson
From Lenoir, NC
Joined Dec 10, 2010
112 points
Mar 8, 2013
I don't think a tantric chant at the base of a route is going to overcome your weaknesses in technique and strength. Poise is cool and all, it usually improves with better technique and strength though. highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Denver
Joined Oct 29, 2012
16 points
Mar 8, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Dustin Drake wrote:
You're stoned right now, aren't you? :P



Dustin here has provided you with the answer which you seek...
Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Mar 8, 2013
On top of Hitchcock Pinnacle.
Right shoe on first. Check knot, check partner, check self again then chalk. Partner checks them self, me, then them self again. Put right hand on rock and thank it and its creator for being there and allowing me to be there instead of at work. As stressful as climbing can sometimes be, it's still not as stressful as being a corporate slave, and that always calms me down. Steven Groetken
From Durango, CO
Joined Sep 30, 2012
342 points
Mar 8, 2013
CoR
Everyone seems to want everything now. It is very simple. Put in hundreds of hours at the grade before moving up, thus assuring you are ready to move up. rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Mar 8, 2013
The Nose from the road
rging wrote:
Everyone seems to want everything now. It is very simple. Put in hundreds of hours at the grade before moving up, thus assuring you are ready to move up.



what he said
Mike Mu.
Joined Feb 15, 2007
81 points
Administrator
Mar 8, 2013
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
drop a tab... Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,420 points
Mar 8, 2013
Making Sauce...
The Stoned Master wrote:
..I will slow myself down (without smoking weed), center myself and retain my energy which can then be applied as needed in the moment. Think purposeful...


If you want the above while you climb, practice the above all the time.

The best pre-climb rituals happen long before you climb.

Lao Tzu said something like "do the hard things while they are easy"

... of course he also said something like "those who speak don't know, and those who know don't speak."
LML
Joined Jun 24, 2005
138 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!