This route is known for the diabolical lunge-crux that guards the anchor. However, the climbing is technical and strenuous from the moment you leave the ground. Several interesting moves up the slabby prow will get you pumping before an excellent rest just below the crux.
Its possible to climb the crux statically, but where's the fun in that?
This is on the first prow you will approach from the downclimb, beginning just above a rotten log. Also the third bolted route from the far right end of the cliff.
5 Bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
|By Rick Shull|
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Dec 6, 2006
It's been a while since I did this one, but I think there is a good TCU/small cam placement between the fourth and fifth bolts that protects the slight run out.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Cams aren't desirable on this climb, in my opinion. (The positioning of the gear may have changed since back in the day, as there are now 5 bolts where it apparently used to be '4 bolts + 1 piton')
The bolt is above your waist for the lunge crux move, so it's easy to go for it.