|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||August 1948, Richard Pownall and Art Gilkey|
|Submitted By:||Taylor Morgan on Aug 7, 2010|
|Comments on Pownall-Gilkey||Add Comment|
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By Mike A. Lewis
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 30, 2013
1st Pitch: The 1st "pitch" traverses right from upper saddle (below the base of the west face rappels). This pitch is easy, but very exposed and has a few slabby moves that will make you think when wearing gloves and approach shoes. A few Pins and a bolt. There are some cracks to place gear if you want. This pitch ends on a ledge full of large blocks. About 40m.
2nd Pitch: Climb a short crack in a left facing corner. Slabby at first. Once past this crack, stand on a large ledge with a pin. Then go up the 20ft 5.8 corner with a few pins and a fixed nut. Climb to a ledge with a bolt. Other pro can be placed here to back up the bolt. 35m.
3rd Pitch: Climb straight up. There is a pin sticking out of a crack. Nice, fun pitch with jugs. Past this face, climb up a left leaning slab/wide crack. Finish on a large ledge. 5.6-ish, 35m.
Finish by traversing left - 2nd/3rd class, and connect to the Owen-Spalding or the Upper Exum.
Descent: Do the normal raps back down to the Upper Saddle.
By Gee Double
Jul 1, 2014
|Almost all the gear is fixed in summer, dry conditions, I recommend #3 friend for belay out right, w/crux above|