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Grand Teton
Routes Sorted
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Golden Pillar, Direct North Face T 
Grand Traverse, The T 
Lower Exum Ridge T 
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Pownall-Gilkey T 
Underhill Ridge Original/Direct T 
Upper Exum Ridge T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Pownall-Gilkey 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: August 1948, Richard Pownall and Art Gilkey
Page Views: 2,375
Submitted By: Taylor Morgan on Aug 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Mike Buturla and Gineth Soto at the top of the 1st...

Description 

The Pownall-Gilkey is a less-traveled and more challenging 3-pitch variation/alternative to the crowded Owen-Spalding.

Follow the standard Owen-Spalding approach to the Upper Saddle. Upon reaching the Upper Saddle, traverse right, to the south (Owen-Spalding is to the left).

Pitch 1 (5.8): Upon traversing right, the ledge system gradually steepens and narrows (after approximately 100'). At the end of the ledge system, follow a thin crack in the steep corner. Climb this crack to the top of the block, then on to a comfortable ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.6): Follow the obvious, easier crack to the wide bench extending across the southwest face of the Grand Teton.

Pitch 3 (3rd/4th): Traverse directly to rejoin the upper portion of the Owen-Spalding or the Exum Ridge.

Protection 

One set of cams up to 2", stoppers, one 60m rope.


Photos of Pownall-Gilkey Slideshow Add Photo
Greg Collins leading first pitch.  Aider placed for following clients.
BETA PHOTO: Greg Collins leading first pitch. Aider placed fo...
Looking west from ledge system above Upper Saddle.  Owen-Spalding is to the right in the photo; follow ledges left in photo to reach Pownall-Gilkey.
BETA PHOTO: Looking west from ledge system above Upper Saddle....
Near the top of the 2nd pitch (5.8). Some pins during the pitch. One pitch to go.
BETA PHOTO: Near the top of the 2nd pitch (5.8). Some pins dur...

Comments on Pownall-Gilkey Add Comment
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By Mike A. Lewis
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2013

1st Pitch: The 1st "pitch" traverses right from upper saddle (below the base of the west face rappels). This pitch is easy, but very exposed and has a few slabby moves that will make you think when wearing gloves and approach shoes. A few Pins and a bolt. There are some cracks to place gear if you want. This pitch ends on a ledge full of large blocks. About 40m.

2nd Pitch: Climb a short crack in a left facing corner. Slabby at first. Once past this crack, stand on a large ledge with a pin. Then go up the 20ft 5.8 corner with a few pins and a fixed nut. Climb to a ledge with a bolt. Other pro can be placed here to back up the bolt. 35m.

3rd Pitch: Climb straight up. There is a pin sticking out of a crack. Nice, fun pitch with jugs. Past this face, climb up a left leaning slab/wide crack. Finish on a large ledge. 5.6-ish, 35m.

Finish by traversing left - 2nd/3rd class, and connect to the Owen-Spalding or the Upper Exum.

Descent: Do the normal raps back down to the Upper Saddle.
By Gee Double
Jul 1, 2014

Almost all the gear is fixed in summer, dry conditions, I recommend #3 friend for belay out right, w/crux above