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Talent Scout
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Powerglide 
Talent Scout Left Arete 
Talent Scout Roof 
Talent Scout Standard 

Powerglide 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Steve Mammen
Page Views: 3,535
Submitted By: Sean Bradley on Oct 19, 2001

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The starting holds of Powerglide.

Description 

This problem is on the Talent Scout Bouder, just down the hill from the Bolt Wall. Start right in the middle of the north-facing side of the boulder. Starting on two small slopey crimps and a slick left foot. The key move is the powerful dynamic move up the the obvious rail from the two heinous crimps. Awesome problem, but hard on the tips and tendons.


Protection 

Fairly good landing except a rock off to the right. I've never come close to hitting it, but I always put a pad there, just in case. 2 pads covers the area good enough.



Photos of Powerglide Slideshow Add Photo
About to latch the final reachy crux toss to the rail for the send.
About to latch the final reachy crux toss to the r...
Melissa crimping hard on the awful second set of holds on Powerglide.
Melissa crimping hard on the awful second set of h...
Comments on Powerglide Add Comment
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By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Jul 27, 2003

FA: Steve [Mammen].

By Joseph P. Crotty
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 18, 2006

My recollection of Power Glide is that it's to the left of the problem the woman is shown on. The key hold is a crappy undercling in the roof off which you paste the feet high and make a huge toss to the top - Power then Glide. The incut on the upper face mid way up maybe out ... I just can't remember. I just recall some crazy dyno action after sick power crimping. Classic eliminate problem. I could be mistaken, but after years spent in my youth working Power Glide back in the 80s with the likes of Steve Mammen, Mark Wilford, Tim Fairfield, Dave the Hippy, etc. I am fairly positive. The problem the gal is on checks in at about V3 and is no where near V8. Solid old school B2!

By Steve McCorkel
Sep 23, 2006

I believed Joseph has this problem confused with the Talent Scout Roof, because the problem she's on is not V3. It is in fact somewhere near V8. Indeed there are "eliminates" to the problem Talent Scout that check in at V8 (and one of them may have been know as Power Glide), but the route pictured here is commonly known today as Power Glide V8; it has unique holds until the move left to the in-cut on Talent Scout. The route Joseph describes sounds a lot like the present day Talent Scout Roof.

By Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"
Oct 24, 2006

The photo's MOST DEFINITELY are of Powerglide (V8). The undercling problem mentioned to the left is "The Talent Scout". Zig-zagging up the jugs just Rt of the photo is the V3 "Standard" rt.

By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2011

What do you think about using that pinch up right where the roof connects to the lower section? I give it a V6 with that hold.