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The Lynch Crag
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Eraserhead 
Mulholland Drive 
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Wounded Knee 

Powered by Old English 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Sutton & Angie Sutton, November 1992
Page Views: 1,332
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2002
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Vern styling yet another deep Wonderland classic. ...

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Description 

This thin layback and face route lies on the right side of the south face of The Lynch Crag. Climb the thin layback and face (11d) past 5 bolts to where the climbing eases and the crack widens. Above a final bolt protects a 5.10c move to a 2 bolt anchor. Rappel 85 feet to ground.


Protection 

6 bolts and a couple of thin to 0.5 inch pieces.



Photos of Powered by Old English Slideshow Add Photo
(L-R) Erasure Head (9, around corner); Wounded Knee (10a); Mulholland Drive (11c); and Powered By Old English (11c/d). Copyright 2003, by Randy V.
BETA PHOTO: (L-R) Erasure Head (9, around corner); W...
Reaching for a thin edge at the bulging crux. Photo by H.Harris.
Reaching for a thin edge at the bulging crux. Phot...
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By Murf
Apr 4, 2005
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Power followed by technique and power. A key hold broke as I moved past the third bolt on the way to the fourth. Moving to the fourth bolt is certainly harder, and it will effect clipping the third. Since I thought the crux was higher, I don't think it effects the grade accept to settle it in at 5.11d.

By tony grice
Mar 7, 2007

WE TR'd this one, cool moves lots of side pullin and body tension for me. Great location, and once again Sunny!

By Richard Shore
Jan 5, 2013

Burly! Nearly every move up until the easy crack is 5.11, with some .11+ mixed in for good measure. I thought the crux was on the thin slab just before the easy crack. Give it a TR burn after doing the .9 or .10a if you can't lead at this grade.