Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Jonathan Richards and Douglas Martin 7/1988 |
Page Views: | 7,183 total · 57/month |
Shared By: | David Delkeskamp on Oct 22, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Description
P1 there are three starts: farthest left is the 5.9 crack (trad gear), then the 10b sport variation called Hand Tools. It was dirty, mossy, traversy, and pretty dang fun. I used single length slings on bolts one and two and didn't get much drag at all. At the anchor atop pitch one I pulled the rope through all of the gear then lowered it back down, making it a safer follow. The furthest right variation is the 5.12a start, up the line of bolts to the left of the small tree.
P2 head up and right through putting green-like terrain to some (whoooo-hooo) cleaner stone. You can place some gear before the first bolt (~30 ft up to the right).
P3 and P4 are pretty much clean killer bee sport climbing with an emphasis on stemming. Less pumpy than it's neighbor "Misson Impossible". The bolt location seems right on; bolts at all cruxy bits. Young guide calls it 5.10d, so go send it and start feeling good about yourself again.
P5 5.2 scramble with the possibility of slinging a rock and getting some small cams in. Above the P5 anchor there is another bolt and rap ring (another ~40ft up the ramp to the right).
Final notes: Beware of raptor closures (Citadel formation is open in the fall) and this climb faces north so it is shady most, if not all of the day!
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