Power Tools 5.12c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Tedd Thompson, Darius Azein, 1987 |
| Season: | west facing- morning shade |
| Submitted By: | bheller on Jun 23, 2009 |
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Description This technical crimping testpiece was the first route at the City to be established on rappel with a power drill. The crux slaps you right at the first bolt and continues until the second bolt. The opening moves climb like a sharp, crimpy V5 boulder problem. Above the crux waits a slightly runout 5.10+ face climb. The climb is nice, and the features it ascends are beautiful, but I feel its just too short and over too quick to be really classic. Perhaps 2.5 stars.
Location Located on the Morning glory Spire just left of the mega-classic Crack of Doom, and right of the Strategic Defence arete. Crack of Doom and Power Tools share the same start. Rappel from anchors at top- bring a 60m rope to be safe.
Protection Bolts only. You probably want to stick-clip the first bolt... but Johnny Woodward didn't and he onsighted:)
By Ben Folsom
Sep 20, 2010
| Great route, I thought it was classic. Although the crux is over with shortly, the 5.10/11 climbing on the rest of the route was totally captivating for me, and I thought the crux has some nice, interesting moves as well. If you are a scared climber like me, I would recommend bringing a #0.4 or #0.5 camalot sized piece for the horizontal crack above the last bolt. |
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Sep 20, 2010
| Are you the blonde california-surfin lookin' dude we saw TR'ing "Beware of Nesting Ego's"? I almost got on that. Did do Singapore and Battle of the Bulges clean though. Figgered I best not push my luck! |
By Ben Folsom
Sep 21, 2010
| Yeah, I guess... I don't consider myself a "California-surfin lookin' dude"... Between work and climbing and a few other interests, not much time left to go get a haircut I guess. I love "Nesting Egos" so I told my friend to do it at the end of the day and I got a nice TR run cleaning it for him. Anyway, Singapore seems harder to me than Nesting Egos. We saw you earlier that day... You did Brown Flake and some other stuff while we were on Crack of Doom and Crack of Dung. |
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