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 ADVANCED
Morning Glory Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Book of Dissent T 
Brown Flake T 
Crack of Doom T 
Easiest Route T 
Fall Line S 
Incisor T 
Morning Glory S 
Power Tools S 
Reach for the Sky T,S 
Siesta S 
Skyline T 
Strategic Defense T 
Veal Cage S 

Power Tools 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tedd Thompson, Darius Azein, 1987
Season: west facing- morning shade
Page Views: 1,355
Submitted By: bheller on Jun 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

This technical crimping testpiece was the first route at the City to be established on rappel with a power drill. The crux slaps you right at the first bolt and continues until the second bolt. (Have holds broken since the FA?) These opening moves climb like a powerful, sharp, crimpy V6 boulder problem. Above the crux is loads more delicate, cryptic,and crimpy 11+ or perhaps 12- face climbing with fewer bolts than you might prefer. The climb is great, and the features it ascends are eye catching- you will rejoice upon solving the lower crux and leaving those painful crimps behind! As Bingham says "One of the best technical crimp challenges around."

Location 

Located on the Morning glory Spire just left of the mega-classic Crack of Doom, and right of the Strategic Defence arete. Crack of Doom and Power Tools share the same start. Rappel from anchors at top- bring a 60m rope to be safe.

Protection 

Spaced bolts all along, with an opportunity for micro cams in the higher vertical crack, and then a small finger sized cam in the final horizontal. You probably want to stick-clip the first bolt... but Johnny Woodward didn't and he onsighted:)


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By Ben Folsom
Sep 20, 2010

Great route, I thought it was classic. Although the crux is over with shortly, the 5.10/11 climbing on the rest of the route was totally captivating for me, and I thought the crux has some nice, interesting moves as well. If you are a scared climber like me, I would recommend bringing a #0.4 or #0.5 camalot sized piece for the horizontal crack above the last bolt.
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Sep 20, 2010

Are you the blonde california-surfin lookin' dude we saw TR'ing "Beware of Nesting Ego's"? I almost got on that. Did do Singapore and Battle of the Bulges clean though. Figgered I best not push my luck!
By Ben Folsom
Sep 21, 2010

Yeah, I guess... I don't consider myself a "California-surfin lookin' dude"... Between work and climbing and a few other interests, not much time left to go get a haircut I guess. I love "Nesting Egos" so I told my friend to do it at the end of the day and I got a nice TR run cleaning it for him. Anyway, Singapore seems harder to me than Nesting Egos. We saw you earlier that day... You did Brown Flake and some other stuff while we were on Crack of Doom and Crack of Dung.
By Scott H.
From: Sandy, UT
Sep 24, 2013

Here is a video of B.Heller redpointing Power Tools.

youtu.be/t1uNGGBTlkM