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 ADVANCED
The North Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 
Apogee Pending S 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 
Flamingo Lane S 
Full Retard S 
Here We Go Again... Again. S 
Lead Farmer S 
Logan's Run S 
Long Black Veil S 
Observe God's Mistake S 
Pimp's Main Prophet S 
Power Milk & Bagels S 
Power Thirteen S 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts S 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 
Spitting Image S 
Teenage Prostitutes S 
That's What She Said S 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 

Power Thirteen 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 551
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 19, 2011

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Description 

This is the obvious link-up between the start of Apogee Pending and the finish of That's What She Said. This is one of the more gymnastic lines of the grade at Shelf, with big moves on a steep wall, and no tweaky pockets.

Begin as for AP , with techy, thin face climbing to a good rest, followed by a power endurance crux boulder problem that culminates in a huge dyno just above the second bolt. Clip AP's Third bolt with a long draw or sling, then move left around the arete, climbing relatively easily past the last three bolts of TWSS.

Location 

Begin at the center of obvious overhanging north wall of the big dihedral.

Protection 

6 bolts, 2BA (shared with Unknown 1). Stick clip recommended. The finish is a bit spicy (on 5.8 or less terrain), but all of the hard moves are well protected. Bring a few finger-sized cams to protect the last 30' if so desired.


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By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 13, 2011

A good climb with very contrasting sections. The bottom crux is a steep as it gets at Shelf while the top climbs perfect grey stone up a slab. Some choss down low and a no hands rest cost this route one star.