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The Power Wall
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Power Station 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Leventhal, Matt Oliphant '01
Page Views: 2,147
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Jul 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: Mel starting out on Power Station (5.10b)
New Access Difficulties MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another fun moderate. Somewhat pumpy jug-haul, lessened considerably by the availability of many good rests on the dihedral. Crux at the top: when you see two bolts and two anchors within 5 feet of each other, you know you’re there.


Location 

Second route from the left (on Power Wall), just before the pool of water. An obvious climb up a small dihedral littered with huge huecos.


Protection 

5 bolts + anchors. Plenty of good bolts to a biner and an open shut at the top. A bit of loose rock at the top.



Photos of Power Station Slideshow Add Photo
One of the many hueco rests
BETA PHOTO: One of the many hueco rests
Kirk belayed by Alabama from 1-15-11
Kirk belayed by Alabama from 1-15-11
Power Station on 10-2-10
Power Station on 10-2-10
Alabama from 1-15-11
Alabama from 1-15-11
Power Station on 10-2-10
Power Station on 10-2-10
malibu creek 10b power station.
malibu creek 10b power station.
Power Station on 10-2-10
Power Station on 10-2-10
Alabama from 1-15-11
Alabama from 1-15-11
Power Station on 10-2-10
Power Station on 10-2-10
Kirk from 1-15-11
Kirk from 1-15-11
Alabama from 1-15-11
Alabama from 1-15-11
This climb has a couple great knee bars providing plenty of rest.
This climb has a couple great knee bars providing ...
Alabama from 1-15-11
Alabama from 1-15-11
Powering up Power Station.
Powering up Power Station.
Comments on Power Station Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Oct 10, 2009

Super fun route. I'd have a buddy TR clean the route instead of taking the draws off while being lowered because the anchors are to the right and its a kind of a mission.

By Rick Hill
From: la crescenta, ca
Jul 11, 2010

Position yourself wisely for the third blot clip. I found it tricky had to do an around the head twist maneuver wasn't pretty

By Todd Horton
Apr 13, 2013

Great route, but the second to last bolt prior to the anchors is sunk in a hollow sounding piece of rock. I would not want to fall on it. Also, there are a number of holds just before the anchors that sound hollow as well and may come off. Climb carefully!